In May, Bremont announced its new CEO, Davide Cerrato, formerly of Tudor, Montblanc and, most recently, fluid-time-display pioneer HYT. Now comes the first collection that’s under Cerrato’s scrutiny – a revamped Supermarine. Since he became CEO, Cerrato has spoken of his desire to take this most British of brands global by becoming the leading maker of tool watches. As part of this he has streamlined the collections and placed them into three categories. Land and Air will be coming later, but we’re kicking off with Sea.
The new Supermarine S302 will, in many ways, be familiar to Bremont lovers. It still has the retro syringe- style hour and minute hands and the orange-outlined GMT hand. It’s still a very accommodating 40mm and the jet, embossed now rather than etched, on the back remains the Supermarine Spitfire S.6B from 1931. There is lots of newness, too. Instantly noticeable is the vibrant two-tone bezel in green and blue. And now, with the 24-hour scale on the bezel and day/night indication (green for day, blue for night), it’s a true GMT. Or rather a true Caller GMT to give it its proper name, which refers to the fact that the GMT hand can only move forward in single-hour increments, so you know the time in the overseas office when you need to place a call. It also has an improved power reserve of 50 hours, 300m water resistance, and, for the first time, the S300 collection has the option of a rubber strap. The other options for the blue-and-green bezel version is a rugged brown leather or steel bracelet. There is another version, an all-black sandblasted DLC-cased creation with pops of orange called the S302 Jet, and that comes on straps of rubber or vintage leather in similarly inky shades.
‘Diving watches are the strongest representation of the tool watch category,’ says Cerrato. ‘The design elements of a dive watch are highly codified, and we have interpreted them all in this first step of the design refresh of the Supermarine.’
This being Bremont, there are new ambassadors and a limited edition. To launch the new wave of Supermarines, it has teamed up with Ocean Ramsey and her partner Juan Oliphant. Ramsey is a marine biologist, conservationist, professional freediver and scuba instructor, author and model. Oliphant is also a marine conservationist, as well as an award-winning photographer and videographer. Together they have worked to raise awareness around the need for ocean conservation in myriad ways, including diving with around 50 different species of shark to educate the public about the misunderstood behaviour of these ocean predators. It is this element of their activism that inspired the all-grey Supermarine. Limited to 400 pieces, it has been rendered in a special shade called “Thresher Grey” after the endangered shark species. There are brown leather and steel bracelet strap options, but the grey rubber strap emphasises the watch’s dive pedigree. There is also a charitable aspect. Save the Sea Turtles International, with whom Ramsey and Oliphant partner, will receive a percentage of proceeds from all watch sales of this particular Supermarine Ocean. The charity promotes marine conservation via the elimination of plastic waste, saves marine life from entanglement, provides educational outreach and supports local communities. And with a freediver and photographer/ videographer on board, expect the new Supermarine to be put through its paces. Alongside a shark, of course.
This first launch is very much a capsule collection, but with this Supermarine as Cerrato’s first toe-dip into Bremont waters, it’s an exciting glimpse of what’s on the horizon.
S302 GMT Diver, £3,250 on leather and rubber; £3,650 on steel bracelet. Limited Edition Supermarine Ocean, £3,450 on leather or rubber; £3,850 on steel bracelet. bremont.com