So the weather has improved and we’re allowed to get together again. What better time for a summer wedding – especially as there must be a backlog, postponed for a couple of years?

But what to wear? The history of menswear has been nothing if not a tale of gradual relaxation. From stiff-collared shirts to soft. From frock coats to what we now think of as a traditional tailored jacket; and from the structured versions of those jackets to the more lightweight, deconstructed models of today. And what about the shift of underwear into, well, over-wear? There was a time when a T-shirt was not a go-to partner for anything from jeans to suits, but was instead to be kept hidden beneath your top. Then, of course, there has been the rise and rise of the trainer as the footwear du jour.

In this context, the question of what happens to dressing for special occasions – big parties, red carpet-type events, and, indeed, weddings – is an interesting one. According to Oliver Spencer, there are two ways to go. Either you embrace tradition, as Brooklyn Beckham did for his recent nuptials, and adopt the full tuxedo ensemble – or, even more formally, morning suit combo – or you parlay the more casual style of our times into something that works and is not a million miles away from what you might sport every day.

It is the latter approach that Spencer became interested in, after, he says, attending a “Hackney wedding” pre-lockdown: ‘I call it a Hackney wedding, but it was actually at the Barbican. But it had a Hackney vibe – people who can’t get their head around a morning suit, and even feel that a conventional suit makes them look like they are going to work. It got me thinking that there was this great big opportunity to make tailoring that is totally relaxed and versatile – that can work comfortably with a white T-shirt and trainers, as well as a shirt and even a tie if you feel like it.’

Spencer trialed the idea last summer with a special capsule collection for Mr Porter, which clearly struck a nerve, as it sold out, even though the opportunities for wearing it were much more limited back then.

Now he’s revisiting the look, launching a collection of suits in linen, and cotton and linen, all in ‘soft, simple pastel and beachy colours alongside your more traditional navy and greys’. The key is that these jackets and trousers have been deconstructed, a process that renders them lightweight and comfortable, and requires some skilful engineering. Shape is achieved through cut, rather than padding and lining, the dynamic of the cloth harnessed to preserve the impression of structure, where in fact there is little. This is Spencer’s speciality – tailoring that still makes you look well-dressed, even while it declares you as one who challenges the traditional notions of what that phrase means.

‘The design is effortless; a one-button single-breasted jacket with relaxed trousers – a cut that’s appropriate for a hot country,’ explains Spencer. They come with a fishtail (a notch in the back for comfort) or with a drawstring.

‘But deconstruction also means there are no rules about how you wear it,’ says the designer. ‘Put the jacket and trousers together for a suit on the big day, then pack them in a suitcase and wear them as separates on a honeymoon. And then all summer long, matched together or worn apart.’

He suggests pairing with cotton T-shirts or long- or short-sleeved linen shirts, and finishing off with a pair of trainers, or brown suede loafers.

‘This was inspired by a trip I managed to make last year to Key West,’ says Spencer. ‘My family is American, so we were able to get out there, and I was reminded of the appeal of that warm-weather “Cubana” style that is elegant and tailored, but perfectly suited to relaxed, hot summer days, and features whites, sky blue, cream, light grey and pastels. I’ve thrown in some navy, too, as this is British menswear, after all.’

But over there, Spencer says, he’d even ditch the jacket for a wedding, and just go for a pair of drawstring trousers with a short-sleeved linen shirt with double pockets at the front, both from the new collection. ‘This really is a collection for those who feel dressing up doesn’t need to involve getting trussed-up,’ he explains.

oliverspencer.co.uk; mrporter.com