WORDS
Antonino Biondo
‘I’ve been been deep diving into the archives, and I wanted to talk about codes and symbols,’ says Silvia Venturini Fendi, head of accessories and menswear at the luxury Italian fashion house, as it launches its latest spring/summer collection in Milan.
The third generation of the family dynasty, it’s little surprise that the designer is presenting a collection that reflects on the theme of family and belonging, creating a fantasy coat of arms stamped on caps, blazers and ties. Featuring the double F monogram in one quadrant and the brand’s signature Pequin-striped logo in another, the design also features the image of a squirrel, paying homage to the brand’s original logo from 1925, and a depiction of Janus, the two-faced Roman god of beginnings and endings – and a source of inspiration for founder Alda Fendi’s work. ‘I wanted to design a crest,’ explains Fendi, ‘because I think that when you have 100 years of your story, you are part of this club of people that have been changing the rules of Italian fashion and building something into what it is today.’ Presented in a warehouse on the outskirts of Milan, enhanced with multiple moving mirrors for an “eyes to the future” vibe, the collection incorporates the archetypes of an all-boys boarding school uniform via Madras check trousers, shirts and crested vests in dusty green and yellow. A distinguished British allure, meanwhile, comes through in casual trench coats and knitted rugby sweaters. Elsewhere, the signature Selleria stitching – a sewing technique inherited from Rome’s master saddlers – proliferates across accessories and garments in different scales, from Japanese Boro denim to the Peekaboo ISeeU Soft bag. It’s a collection that perfectly encapsulates the essence of a century of Fendi, and – if you’re not already a member – a club definitely worth joining. |