Brummell Recommends: Japes

This cool Soho pizza joint gives depth to the humble pizza with a unique London-inspired twist

Food and Drink 23 Nov 2023

Background

Born in 2018, Japes adds a new and exciting (and filling) proposition to the bulging pizza market with a welcome twist that broadens the multicultural food hall that is London’s culinary scene. With branches currently in Greenwich and London’s Dean Street, the vibe is cool, edgy, delicious fast-food with a difference: thing deep dish pizzas thoughtful cooked with cheese first then tomato sauce to protect the abundance of flavour within. Its new London-style pizzas though are the ones to order. Just as London shines as a multicultural culinary hub, the London-style pizza is a mix of Japes’ original Deep-Dish pizza, together with elements of Detroit Style, Sicilian Style, and every child’s favourite – Grandma Style pizza.

The Space

Immediately cool and relaxed, Japes’ is spacious and inviting, with canteen-style wooden tables and iron chairs, exposed pipe work and walls adorned with neon signs, painted slogans and witty messages.With a lively vibe and friendly staff too, it’s comfortable and cosmopolitan, and the perfect spot to take a break from your shopping and grab a quick but unique lunch.

The Food

Of course, when Brummell visited, it was with a view to ordering Japes’ much hyped London-style pizza. If you like a thick layer of toppings and a light base, this is definitely the pizza style for you. We went for the no frills classic margarita and received a no-crust pizza rich with Japes’ homemade tomato sauce, caramelised mozzarella, fresh basil and olive oil. It was so thick and delicious, we wondered why all pizza is not like this while simultaneously wondering if purists would call it a pizza at all. Even more controversial for aforementioned purists is the mouth-wateringly inviting Deep-Dish pizza. A kind of cross between a pizza and a pie, this is deep with “toppings” and surrounded by a protective wall of delicious crust, which we were invited to break off and dip into one of five special sauces designed for exactly this purpose! (No more wasted crusts in sight!) We ordered the Wicked Chickens Deep-Dish – a moreish cheesy combination of chicken tenders, buttermilk ranch dressing, mozzarella, parmesan, mushrooms and sweetcorn. If you’re used to a Neapolitan, our recommendation if you’re heading to Japes for lunch is to go light on breakfast, because these mammoth creations are as filling as they are delicious. Lucky for us the team has takeout boxes on hand so you can keep on enjoying the goodness when you feel hungry again later on. And with it’s delectable selection of starters and sides, including olives, nachos and chorizo bites, and ice-cream-based desserts,  it’s hard to save room for the main event London-Style but if you can pack a lot in then you’re in for a real treat!

The Bill

Lunch for two including starters and either a Deep-Dish or London-Style pizza plus dessert and drinks comes to around £45.

The Verdict

The perfect spot for a Saturday lunch in town or for a bite to eat before a show. Cool, edgy and with a unique food offering that will make your mouth water just thinking about it. A delicious belly-filling, taste-bud tingling treat that broadens the London food scene in a totally unexpected way.

Japes, 22-25 Dean St, London W1D 3RY; japes.uk