Brummell recommends: Brix

The hip new London Bridge warehouse restaurant boasts elevated cooking alongside art, great music and sophisticated party vibes

Food and Drink 18 May 2022

Delicious and elevated comfort food at Brix

Delicious and elevated comfort food at Brix

The background

Brix is the third project from restaurateurs Michael Lythgoe and Cidalia Rodrigues, who are known for setting up Brixton’s beloved BVG and Chip Shop. They have joined forces with award-winning chef Radek Nitkowski, formerly of Soho House Group, and international DJ and music producer Troyboi, to create a hospitality team like no other, as dedicated to creating a good time as an unforgettable meal. 

Oxtail doughnuts at Brix
Oxtail doughnuts at Brix

The space

Brix has taken over an enormous 8,500 sq ft warehouse space in London Bridge, formerly the Metal Box Factory. Complete with Crittall windows, exposed brickwork and contemporary artwork, it’s the definition of industrial chic, creating an atmosphere that is at once sophisticated, chic and party-ready. Brix covers two floors and includes a restaurant, bar and club room; it’s a clever multi-purpose venue that is as suited to a casual cocktail as a celebratory meal. The restaurant itself is large and adorned with contemporary art, and has an open kitchen on one side. During the day, light streams in through the large windows, making it the perfect brunch or lunch spot, while in the evening the space feels buzzy and hip.

The menu

Brix’s food has been developed by chef Radek Nitkowski to combine bistro, grill room and casual dining classics with interesting twists, elevated flavour combinations and refined execution. The American-inflected menu consists of small plates, mains, dishes from the grill and weekend-focused brunch and roasts. It’s a meat-heavy menu but has plenty for vegetarians, vegans and health-focused diners.

Stand-out small plates include delica pumpkin, with pomegranate, puffed millet, grape must mustard dressing, baby kale and a choice of toppings: hot smoked salmon, vegan curd or chicken. The hot smoked salmon tart with seaweed aioli is delicate and well balanced and the lobster and Monterey Jack mac ’n’ cheese, pancetta crumb is moreish and rich. Other highlights include a spicy-sweet jalapeño cornbread, umami oxtail doughnuts with Keens cheddar and sweet pepper jam, and a smooth and balanced sweetcorn chowder with roasted chickpeas.

Warehouse chic and modern art at Brix
Warehouse chic and modern art at Brix

Mains include a tempting Marmite-glazed beef short rib with kohlrabi remoulade, perfectly cooked fish and chips with CBD-infused batter and the option to have one’s fish grilled if feeling healthy, and charred corn-fed chicken breast served fresh from the grill with roasted cauliflower. Guests can also order a Black Angus porterhouse for two from the grill, served with Saint Denis-style butter and gunpowder sauce for a full feast, that comes perfectly cooked and utterly irresistible. 

To follow, Brix serves an array of truly delicious desserts that continue the theme of elevated comfort food and includes one of London’s finest cheesecakes – that was so heartily recommended to us by the waitress that we changed our order and were extremely delighted to have done so. The dessert menu also includes tart and lovely gin-infused donuts with cardamom, toasted almonds, dulce de leche and pomegranate, and a rich chocolate mousse, with passionfruit, coconut, and meringue. 

Brix chef Radek Nitkowski
Brix chef Radek Nitkowski

To drink, the cocktails are fun, strong and beautifully mixed (try the Mexican way, a mix of tequila, Chambord, lime juice and agave) and make the perfect accompaniment to a fun dinner or weekend brunch. 

The bill

Three courses with cocktails for two people, around £95. 

The verdict

Classy classic and comfort cooking in hip surrounds makes Brix feel like a heady and moreish mix of New York and London. It’s an ideal spot for a date, night out with friends or a casual brunch. 

brixldn.com