Brummell Recommends: Bombay Bustle Comes Home

Delivering everywhere within the M25, Bombay Bustle is more than just a culinary convenience while the restaurant’s doors remain closed, as Brummell discovered

Food and Drink 1 Jul 2020

Bombay Bustle's tiffin-box "dabbawalas" evoke the essence of Mumbai
The Mayfair restaurant's chefs have prepared a delicious delivery menu so you can enjoy its dishes at home

After months of trying to recreate our favourite dishes from the capital’s restaurants at home, we were delighted to accept delivery of a mid-week Indian feast from Bombay Bustle. Unable to frequent the booths at its train carriage inspired Maddox Street restaurant, Brummell ordered a selection of its Bombay-influenced dishes to enjoy at home.

The background

This is the second London venture from Samyukta Nair, with Surender Mohan as executive chef. Nair’s first – Jamavar, also in Mayfair – was awarded a Michelin-star in 2017, just before Bombay Bustle’s launch. Celebrating Mumbai’s eclectic old-world-meets-urban-dreamer spirit, Bombay Bustle’s Art Deco interior was designed by Fabled Studios and is likely a far cry from the four walls of your dining room. Luckily, Mohan’s delivery menu works hard to evoke the flavours and culture of the city. The concept of the restaurant is inspired by tiffin tin carriers, or “dabbawalas”, who use Mumbai’s railway to deliver home cooked food by bicycle.

Delivering everywhere within the M25 for a journey of up to 40 minutes, Bombay Hustle’s offering arrives warm enough to enjoy without reheating. The delivery menu comprises snacks, small plates, tandoor, curry, biryanis and pulao with plenty of sides, chutneys, breads and drinks to accompany your meal.

The food

Intent on trying a little bit of everything, we opted for the charred chiloza malai broccoli with tomato dust and cheese – a surprising and modern dish that was full of flavour – followed by the absolutely moreish paneer tikka masala from the curry section of the menu. We soaked up the remainder of the sauce with warm, pillowy naans before washing it down with the deliciously refreshing D’Rum punch; the perfect cool contrast to the gentle heat and bursting flavour in each dish. The mixed textures of the masala pao with griddled vegetables, and onion chaat salad was a real highlight as was the kairi ki dal with yellow lentils, raw mango, mustard seeds and Kashmiri chilli. Finally, we enjoyed a cooling lychee and passion lassis to round off our mid-lockdown Indian feast.

The bill
A selection of dishes for two with cocktails or wine from £70

The Verdict 

With the absence of a delightful interior, bustling atmosphere and exceptional table service the onus was really on the food, and Bombay Bustle seriously delivered. For a moment, our little west London Victorian terrace was transported – through flavour alone – to a traditional yet modern Mumbai, and for a moment we had a welcome break from ‘these four walls’. Travel may be restricted but a colourful delivery could give you a mini-break you weren’t expecting.

Order Bombay Bustle Comes Home online 24/7 for delivery Sunday-Wednesday 12pm-3pm and 5pm-10pm or Thursday-Saturday 12-3pm and 5-10.30pm;