Brummell recommends: Lahpet

The Burmese eatery's first permanent dining space has opened in Shoreditch, with an impressive mix of staple dishes with a modern touch

Food and Drink 30 Apr 2018

Nangyi Thohk rice noodle salad
Ohn-no kauk swe at Lahpet
Interior of Lahpet

The background

Lahpet is the brainchild of founders Dan Anton and head chef Zaw Mahesh who both have Burmese heritage and saw an opening to introduce London to their unique take on Burmese cooking. The brand started out as a small stall at Maltby Street Market before taking a successful year-long residency in Hackney serving traditional Burmese dishes with a contemporary twist. Lahpet means ‘tea’ in Burmese, and the new restaurant in Bethnal Green Road is Lahpet’s first permanent site – a welcome fixture for this relatively untapped cuisine.

The space

Situated in Shoreditch, just a stone’s throw from Box Park, with interiors designed in collaboration with Natalie Weavers Interiors, the space is modern and warm with natural light flooding in through the large windows on two sides. The wooden flooring is softened by a colour palette of soft grey and pink, offset by the natural green of foliage peppered around the space and at every window. Central to the room is a large copper bar, surrounded by mixed booth seating and a long sharing table overlooking the open kitchen. The jars of pickled and dried Burmese ingredients dotted along the walls are a happy reminder of the restaurant’s origins. When Brummell visited we took our Burmese friend along and sat very comfortably at the bar, which is spacious enough for the smorgasbord of dishes you are likely to want to order.

The menu

Fresh ingredients are at the forefront of the menu at Lahpet, so in addition to using indigenous ingredients imported from Myanmar, Zaw – who came to London from Burma 10 years ago – uses fresh locally sourced British produce. From small plates, distinctive salads and vibrant curries to noodle bowls and traditional desserts, the food here is made to share, and it’s the kind of menu where you will want to order one of everything. We started with mixed fritters, including Mandalay (kidney bean and ginger), sweetcorn, bottle gourd and homemade Shan tofu (crispy on the outside, soft and creamy on the inside – some of the best tofu we’ve tasted), before moving on to a moreish steamed balachaung dumpling and a warming yellow pea paratha. Salads are a signature here at Lahpet, with the umami-packed tea leaf salad and gin thohk ginger salad coming up trumps. When it came to ordering mains, it was a tough decision. The fried aubergine was very appealing, as were the king prawn curry and the lamb and lahpet (more tea leaves), but we opted for Lahpet’s take on the national dish of Burma, mohinga – a catfish and lemongrass chowder, served with more of the homemade tofu – and ohn-no kauk swe – a coconut noodles and chicken bowl – which were rich, delicious, authentic and utterly satisfying. If you’ve still got room, order the banana and semolina cake or the chocolate and caramelised peanut to finish – it will round off a truly unique meal.

There’s a good selection of wines and beers as well as a small but brilliant cocktail list including the much ordered Lahpet Sour (gin, campari, orange, Earl Grey, strawberry jam).

The bill

Meal for two, including small plates, salads, mains and a cocktail, from £70

Summary

A visit to Lahpet should be at the top of every foodie’s to-do list, not just because this is one of the only Burmese restaurants in London, but because the food is authentic and delicious and you’ll be spoilt for choice.

lahpet.co.uk