Brummell Briefing: Shoe special

We pick the best footwear of the season for country pursuits and city saunters

Style 18 Dec 2017

Brummell Briefing: Crockett & Jones Alex black leather Oxfords, £415
Brummell Briefing: Edward Green Galway in dark brown Utah with Dainite rubber soles, £1,090
Brummell Briefing: Paul Smith dark tan high-shine leather brogues, £300
Brummell Briefing: Jimmy Choo Marti in velvet, £525
Brummell Briefing: Dunhill handmade Chelsea boots, £1,450
Brummell Briefing: JM Weston Ultra Weston Collection burgundy Tamponato and suede calfskin Oxfords, £755

Crockett & Jones

While Crockett & Jones has been crafting the highest quality shoes since 1879, its versatile last 348, which was developed in 2004 featuring a square toe, is one of the most innovative lasts of this generation of shoemakers. Indeed, it was the last of choice for Daniel Craig as James Bond in both Skyfall (2012), and Spectre (2015), cementing it as an icon in Crockett & Jones’ history. The elegant English Oxford shoe – a formal style dating back over 200 years and is thought to have been named by students at Oxford University – is the most recognisable of the brand’s classic collection models made with last 348. Complementing smart business attire, the black leather Oxford is a wardrobe staple for business professionals.

Edward Green

Edward Green has been synonymous with the finest English Goodyear welted footwear since 1890. The first Galway boot was designed in the 1930s, and was known as Model 1836. For years this model was made as a country boot, on a round last with a veldtschoen construction – a technique adopted by British soldiers from their Afrikaans adversaries in the Boer war, where the upper is pulled out over the top of the welt for greater protection against the elements. Now just as suited to city streets as to tackling country terrain, the Galway also comes with the elegant 82 last, including Utah leather, a soft, pliable calfskin steeped in nine different oils, and Alsace, a dressier variant in dark oak antique and mink suede with leather soles.

Paul Smith

Lending itself to both smart and casual looks, the classic brogue is one of the most versatile shoe styles a man can own. But for those who want to add a hint of colour to their outfit, English designer Paul Smith can always be counted on for classic pieces with an unexpected twist, and his shoes are no exception. Crafted in Italy from premium high-shine leather with brush-off detailing, the dark tan Crispen brogues feature sturdy black rubber ridge soles with split-colour dark blue and orange bands, creating a refined style with extra durability and traction. The brogues feature precisely punched uppers, a smooth leather lining and ‘Artist Stripe’ leather footbeds with logo emboss, and are ideal for pairing with relaxed tailoring or denim.

Jimmy Choo

Jimmy Choo is best known for its showstopping red carpet heels, but it creates statement footwear for men, too. Creative director Sandra Choi has always explored a more androgynous way of dressing, which is why she has introduced the Borrowed from the Boys collection to the brand for 2018, featuring three styles available for both men and women. The signature silhouettes of a Jimmy Choo men’s evening slipper and loafer style have been tailored for a women’s fit. The men’s Marti model features a chevron hemmed snaffle and comes in a choice of sumptuous crushed velvet, suede or black patent leather. Sleek and formal, it will add flair to your business wardrobe, taking you effortlessly from office to cocktail party.


Dunhill began as a harness-maker in the late 19th century, and the company hasn’t forgotten its roots in leather craft. The Evergreen Chelsea boots are handmade in Britain, constructed on an exclusive Dunhill last from a single piece of French box calf leather with an oak-bark tanned sole, featuring a heat-embossed logo, Dunhill branding on the in-sock and a unique Dunhill nail cluster on the heel. Supple yet durable and designed to hold their shape, each pair is Goodyear-welted for additional structural integrity, and a distinctive patina is visible around the toe. The methodical approach it takes to create each boot is reflected in the effortless elegance of the finished product, as one pair of boots takes 12 months to craft from start to finish.

JM Weston

Eugène Blanchard inherited his father’s shoemaking business and created JM Weston in 1922 with an ambition to create a collection of shoes for men who wish to ‘go beyond’ in every aspect of life. Inspired by the pioneering spirit of Blanchard’s Ultra Shoe collection, the current artistic director Michel Perry has revived his philosophy with the Ultra Weston line – four models with a slightly rounded toe, made using traditional JM Weston craftsmanship. Embodying its renowned French elegance, the burgundy colour is a chic alternative to black, and the bi-material Oxford shoe features waxed, flat laces, hand pegging on the sole to ensure the heel is robust, and a smooth hand-polished tip.