While watchmaking can often seem impervious to fleeting fashion trends, just occasionally something will have a ‘moment’, especially when it comes to dials. Recently it was blue, then green, and now it is subtle salmon hues that are taking the spotlight. Recalling a vintage, sophisticated feel, this intriguing colour comes in a wide range, from punchy pinks to more muted beiges. And making it all the more desirable is the fact that some of the most coveted timepieces in history proudly sport salmon, including the one-of-a-kind Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime that broke records last year to become the most expensive watch sold at auction. Here we take a look at some of the best examples on the market.
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar
With its carefully balanced dial and impeccable finishing, the PanoMaticLunar is a testament to Glashütte Original’s meticulous approach to fine watchmaking. The elegant timepiece is made all the more striking with its new colour scheme, subtly accented with touches of blue across the hands, indices and date and moon phase indications.
This model was released last year in celebration of Habring²’s 15th anniversary. Epitomising the Austrian microbrand’s innovative and technically demanding approach to horology, it features a perpetual calendar combined with a chronograph. It is one of a handful of timepieces to be given a salmon makeover by the brand.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
This handsome offering from A. Lange & Söhne is a masterclass in complex and accomplished watchmaking. Comprising 729 parts, its many features include a flyback chronograph with jumping minute counter, perpetual calendar with moon phase and a tourbillon.
Montblanc Heritage Automatic
The heritage-inspired Montblanc Heritage Automatic takes its cues from the historical Minerva wristwatches from the 1940s and 1950s. Its dial errs towards the bolder side of the salmon spectrum, adding a handsome finishing touch to the otherwise classic and understated dial.
Patek Philippe Reference 5270
Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection represents the pinnacle of the esteemed watchmaker’s horological expertise. The Reference 5270 is no exception, bringing together perpetual calendar and chronograph functions in this refined, vintage-inspired piece.