Untangling the Speedmaster story has become no easier with the passing of time. Introduced in 1957 as a racing chronograph and, much like the TAG Heuer Carrera of 1963, aimed at upwardly mobile young men, it has reached heights its creators could never have imagined – the greatest of them, so often repeated, being its 1969 ascent to the moon on the wrists of the Apollo XI astronauts. History also records the lifesaving role it played in bringing the crew of the ill-fated 1970 Apollo XIII mission – the third mission meant to land on the moon – home, too.

Because of this and more, the Speedmaster became one of the defining designs of 20thcentury Swiss watchmaking, and yet in its 65 years it has also taken innumerable forms, a great many of them currently in circulation. Even this year, we’ve been introduced to the high-end Speedmaster Moonwatch in Omega’s own pale yellow Moonshine Gold, and the bioceramic MoonSwatch, a £207 cultural phenomenon that brought Supreme-like queues to Swatch stores all over the world.

Somewhere between those two extremes – and perhaps because it takes the middle ground – is one of my favourite Speedmaster iterations, the mannered Speedmaster ’57. Introduced less than a decade ago, it mimics many of the proportions of the original mid-century Speedmaster, right down to the steel bezel with its tachymeter scale (for measuring speed over a known distance – very motorsporty) and crownguard-less case.

It is the simpler Speedy, somehow released from the burden of being the Moonwatch, and instead restored to its designer’s vision. On its brushed and polished three-link bracelet it has always looked, well, cool – an easy analysis no doubt made easier still by its relationship to George Clooney. As the ads said, it was ‘George Clooney’s choice…’

Omega returns to the ’57 this year, introducing us to four new models. While colour is the obvious headline attached to the additions, with black, blue, green and burgundy dial and strap options brought to the table, the twist is that each conceals a hand-wound movement. The original ’57, if we can call it that, was automatic, a trait considered par for the course in a contemporary steel sports watch.

Why hand-wound? And why add the rigmarole of regular winding (the power reserve is a modest 60 hours) to owners’ experience? The reason given by the brand is that the watch is now slimmer, coming in just under 13mm, and perhaps marginally more wearable as a result. Not that at that measure its presence is reduced. It’s no featherweight. An “ultra-thin” version of the Speedmaster – one of the original action watches – would hardly make sense, after all.

But I suspect there’s more to it than degrees of slimness. These hand-wound models, complete with their highly anti-magnetic, highly accurate Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9906 movements, do not replace the automatics. Rather, they offer choice. And for some, the interaction between thumb, forefinger and winding crown will always offer a ritualistic pleasure no automatic ever can.

And, of course, the original Speedmaster was hand-wound too, meaning that even in this voguish, colourful new collection, the heart and soul of Omega’s utilitarian yet starry masterpiece remain firmly intact.

From £7,450; omegawatches.com