We select our top five picks of things to come from Pitti Uomo January AW19, but make a note: they won’t be available to buy until later in the year
Regarded as the most important international trade event for menswear and men’s accessories, Pitti Uomo is held at Fortezza da Basso in Florence twice a year, in January and June. Founded in 1972, it has become a barometer of what’s to come in men’s style, attended by buyers and press from around the world, with thousands of global exhibitors offering a preview of their upcoming collections, from clothing to accessories. Here’s what we loved:
Brunello Cucinelli eveningwear
Brunello Cucinelli’s headquarters are located in the picturesque medieval village of Solomeo in Umbria, Italy, and Cucinelli believes the skilled craftsmanship and passion of his artisans makes all the difference to the quality of the final product. Despite being best known for its casual chic aesthetic, the brand’s AW19 range of eveningwear presented at Pitti Uomo is the epitome of effortless evening elegance. As well as featuring classic suiting in sumptuous fabrics such as velvet, its eveningwear has been reinvented with unconventional textures such as corduroy and denim, and the colour palette explores the scale of neutrals, from greys and blues, to beiges and warm reds. Aptly named ‘Gentleman at Ease’, the AW19 collection is designed to combine eveningwear and leisurewear, bridging the gap between formal tailoring and sportier pieces for a relaxed yet sophisticated silhouette.
Grenfell outerwear
Since being founded in 1923 by doctor and philanthropist Sir Wilfred Thomson Grenfell, Grenfell coats have been the outerwear of choice for many mountaineers, aviators and explorers. Grenfell cloth is renowned for its resilience during extreme endeavours. Made in east London, the coats are inspired by iconic styles of the past but with a forward-thinking approach to the design, as demonstrated in the AW19 collection showcased at Pitti Uomo, which interprets the trench coat in various forms, from a cropped double-breasted bomber jacket with ribbed cuffs and hem, to a full mid-calf riding silhouette. The tailored Kensington coat in wool check is another standout piece, combining sartorial finesse with durability, making it ideal for any urban jaunt or rural exploit.
Twisk Shoes
One of the best things about visiting Pitti Uomo is discovering unique independent brands that may not be widely known, but that represent the pinnacle of quality and craftsmanship. One such brand is luxury footwear company Twisk, a regular exhibitor at Pitti Uomo, characterised by its distinctive shoes featuring a five-point sole. Created by a well-known British shoe designer and handmade by Italian master craftsmen, highlights from the new Twisk collection include the Volterra shoe, a monk strap model with two five-point star buckles – hand coloured in classic black, brushed marine blue and ochre yellowfor an antiqued look – and the Hustler boot, a statement design with lines of brogueing and a double zip available in brushed grey or black. Designed for men who want to stand out from the crowd, both styles add flair to formal and casual looks, and the Hustler boots will be walking the catwalk at Micam Milan, the footwear industry’s leading international tradefair, in February this year.
Lundi 36-Hour bag
Finding a travel bag that fulfills both your business and dressing needs is no mean feat, but French brand Lundi has done just that – reinventing a business bag specifically to suit our modern way of working and travelling. Designed for trips of two days and one night, the 36-Hour Travel Bag seen at Pitti Uomo features two nifty compartments in one bag: the ‘office’ compartment offers you all the necessary storage for a computer, cable, tablet, notebook and paper documents, and on the other side, the ‘dressing’ compartment is optimised for your clothes and toiletries. Lundi’s carefully considered design is not just practical, it’s beautifully made with simple, clean lines using the highest quality materials.
Alice Made This cufflinks
When it comes to putting a formal outfit together, details such as a beautiful pair of cufflinks can really complete a look. Founded in 2012 by Alice Walsh (who began her career in product design working with the likes of Habitat and Tom Dixon), Alice Made This uses British industrial engineering methods to make simple yet refined accessories, and the pieces showcased at Pitti Uomo included the new Patina cufflink collection created in collaboration with patina artist Derek Bayley. Inspired by ancient patina techniques, combinations of metals and chemicals are oxidised through atmospheric exposure and layered to create deep colours and refined finishes in this exquisite collection of cufflinks. Each piece is precisely heated with a blowtorch and the specific chemicals are dissolved in water before being expertly applied by hand.
