Something’s going on with London’s pubs. More specifically, something’s going on with London’s pub kitchens. Instead of the usual pies, chips and curries, more and more boozers are opening upstairs dining rooms serving things like caviar, oysters and Ibérico pork – the menus wouldn’t be out of place in Mayfair. What follows is a list of the best upstairs dining rooms at London’s pubs right now, from the ever-popular Devonshire to a new NYC-inspired spot in Shoreditch.

Alfie’s at The Alfred Tennyson, Belgravia

It’s very on-brand for a pub named after a Victorian poet to feel straight out of a storybook. But the main character? Alfie’s – the refined upstairs restaurant, sitting atop a winding staircase. Crisp white tablecloths and florid wallpapers set the scene for a stunning menu devised by chef director Ben Tish, which includes a cast of comforting classics like beef tartare and the perfect roast chicken. The wine list has some interesting sidekicks, too – including a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.

10 Motcomb Street, SW1X 8LA; book your table here

One Club Row at The Knave of Clubs, Shoreditch

Here’s how your night at One Club Row might go. You arrive at the graffiti-covered front door, perhaps after a pre-dinner pint at The Knave of Clubs. You follow the sound of live piano music up the stairs, where you’re warmly greeted by maȋtre d’ (and co-founder) Benjy. You sit down. Drink a martini. Ponder the oysters. Decide on the pork schnitzel to share – and the moules frites… It feels as much like NYC as it does East London – and is definitely one of the hottest restaurants in the city right now.

1 Club Row, E1 6JX; book your table here

The Grill at The Hero, Maida Vale

Widely regarded as one of the most beautiful pubs in London, The Hero also delivers on vibes – something sleepy Maida Vale has definitely been missing. There’s a pub downstairs with a selection of bar snacks scrawled on the ornate mirrors, a cocktail bar and DJ in the attic and, sandwiched between the two, a corniced, candlelit dining room: The Grill. As you might have gathered, grilled meats are the go here – the lamb is particularly good, if it’s on (the menu changes regularly); otherwise, go for one of the excellent pies.

55 Shirland Road, W9 2JD; book your table here

Upstairs at The Devonshire, Soho

Yes, this is the pub where everyone stands outside and drinks Guinness. In fact, so popular is The Devonshire that you’re unlikely to even see the interiors at peak hours – let alone secure a booking at its coveted upstairs restaurant. What’s remarkable, though, is that the much-talked-about food here isn’t particularly fancy. It’s just done well. If you pick one of the meats from the delightfully hand-scrawled menu, it’ll be butchered on site. If you pick fish, it’ll likely be fresh off a day-boat. And if you pick the duck fat chips? You will be very happy indeed.

17 Denman Street, W1D 7HW; book your table here

Bouchon Racine at Three Compasses, Farringdon

In case you missed the dribble-inducing reviews when it first arrived, Bouchon Racine is rather good. It’s on the first floor of the Three Compasses, where Londoners have been propping up the bar for over 300 years. Make no mistake, though: this restaurant is as French as they come (see the côte de boeuf and tête à veau as – delicious – evidence). Other dishes you should sigh over include steak tartare and the perfect Mont Blanc gâteau – a splat of white cream topped with oodles of noodle-like chestnut purée.

Upstairs, 66 Cowcross Street, EC1M 6BP; book your table here