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Food and drink
13 October 2021

Brummell recommends: Sachi at Pantechnicon

Words: 
Jane Fulcher
Food and drink
13 October 2021

Brummell recommends: Sachi at Pantechnicon

Words: 
Jane Fulcher

The new Japanese restaurant with Nordic inflections on the lower ground floor of Pantechnicon is a masterful combination of leading design and world-beating cooking

The background

Sachi is situated on the lower ground floor of Pantechnicon, the landmark Japanese- and Nordic-themed shopping and dining destination on Motcomb Street in London’s Belgravia. Pantechnicon, an incredible six-storey, 19th-century building known for its imposing columned façade, had been used as a warehouse for decades before being painstakingly renovated over five years by architects Farrells and reopening in December 2020 as a department store, bar, café and restaurant. Sachi, a sumptuous Japanese restaurant with Nordic inflections, is one of the final parts of project to be unveiled and is led by head chef Collin Hudson (formerly of Dinings and Roka) and executive chef Chris Golding (previously Nobu, Zuma and Dinings).

The space

Pantechnicon is an architectural and design masterpiece – and Sachi is no different. Natural woods and exposed brick walls are paired with lush bursts of greenery and black marble, while in the centre of the restaurant there is an eight-seat sushi bar from which diners can watch the master chefs at work.

Sashimi is order of the day at Sachi

Beautifully presented sashimi from Sachi

The menu

The food is primarily Japanese in focus and comprises a collection of small plates to share with the table. A sushi and sashimi menu includes exquisite slices of yellowtail, fatty tuna belly, lobster and turbot, as well as a hugely appetising collection of maki rolls and gunkan. The ‘chef’s selection’ of sashimi or nigiri is a good place to start if feeling overwhelmed by the menu, though Sachi’s warm and expert staff were more than ready to help us decide what to order.

Sachi also serves a selection of irresistible hot meat, seafood and vegetable dishes including what is perhaps London’s finest melt-in-the-mouth tuna toro tataki with dashi ponzu. Other highlights include: the moreish and crunchy ankou bubu arare (monkfish in crispy rice served with a tartare dipping sauce); the shishitou peppers with umami brown rice miso; the agedashi tofu with mushrooms and seaweed; lobster tempura with uma dashi and vegetables; and the beef short ribs with black garlic and mushroom. Each dish came beautifully presented and was utterly delicious – a flavour journey with each one more exciting and flavoursome than the one before it.

To accompany the meal, Sachi offers a vast collection of sakes, which the knowledgeable sake sommelier will help you navigate. Sachi also boasts a varied and extensive wine list, including bottles from Japan, as well as a selection of incredible cocktails that you can enjoy in their speakeasy-style lounge bar.

The bill

A meal for two with cocktails, and wine or sake, around £120.

The verdict

A stylish and delicious new opening in a landmark building. The crowds are already flocking to what is fast becoming one of London’s hottest restaurants so book your table now – and order the tuna toro tataki.

Sachi at Pantechnicon, 19 Motcomb Street, SW1X 8LB

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