The background

Following the huge success of their wine and champagne label, Porte Noire, in 2021 actor Idris Elba and wine expert David Farber opened its namesake restaurant and bar in King’s Cross. Combining David’s rich experience as founder of Connaught Wine Cellars and Idris’s eye for what’s next, the duo curated a brilliant collection of wines and an equally stylish dining experience. And their efforts have not gone unrecognised; in 2024 the restaurant was awarded two AA Rosettes for culinary excellence.

The space

Just a stone’s throw away from Regent’s Canal and minutes from one of London’s busiest transport hubs, Porte Noire offers a surprisingly tranquil retreat, complete with a canalside terrace perfect for alfresco dining. Inside, the venue is split into a main dining area and a private wine room, available for intimate tastings and events. Upon arrival, I’m greeted by David’s dog, and part-time restaurant mascot, Cooper. It’s fair to say Cooper’s warmth accurately set the tone for what was to come.

The food

Head chef Gonzalo Luzarraga hails from Piedmont and trained under Alain Ducasse at his three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Monaco before earning Michelin stars of his own in Italy and Austria. His seasonal menu is designed to be paired with wine and, unsurprisingly, Porte Noire’s own collection makes for the ideal companion to these delicious and thoughtfully crafted dishes. 

For an aperitif, I tried Porte Noire’s refreshing Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, a perfectly balanced everyday champagne. A standout of the menu has to be the vegetarian steak tartar. Ingeniously made from three varieties of tomato, it mimics the texture of traditional tartare but is lighter and more vibrant, brightened by chives and capers. Pair it with a crisp rosé for an exquisitely palatable experience.

The Sicilian seafood couscous with tuna and mussel broth is also a must-try, featuring a rich, hearty sauce that doesn’t overpower the delicate flavours of the seafood. Meanwhile, the tuna tataki delivers generous slices of fish, uplifted by tomato ponzu with yuzu and sesame seeds.

Cooper looked on with envy as I enjoyed the grilled Ibérico pork pluma – another standout dish, which must be ordered with the restaurant’s chickpea chips to soak up the pork’s flavourful jus.

The meal was concluded with the restaurant’s cheeseboard with homemade white-wine jelly which, as David proudly shares, took many iterations to perfect. And you can tell – the consideration and hard work that have gone into these dishes are indisputable.

The bill

While I tried a selection of dishes recommended by the chef, Porte Noire King’s Cross offers a two-course set lunch menu on weekdays for £29. You can add dessert for £9 and a side for £9.50. Drinks also priced separately.

Overall

Porte Noire King’s Cross is more than a celebrity-backed venture. With Mediterranean-inspired dishes, a superb wine list and an atmosphere that’s both elegant and unpretentious, the restaurant-cum-wine bar captures the essence of modern European dining and is an undeniable highlight of Kings Cross’s transformative development over the past decade.

Porte Noire King’s Cross, Gasholder 10, Unit A, 1 Lewis Cubitt Square, London N1C 4BY; portenoire.co.uk