Brummell recommends… Nobu Hotel London Shoreditch

After a June reopening, this Nobu outpost is bringing renewed high-end modern Japanese hospitality to its east London neighbourhood

Food and Drink 19 Aug 2022

Nobu Hotel London Shoreditch. Photograph: clairemenary.com
Salmon Sashimi at Nobu. Photograph: Henry Hargreaves

The background

If you’re a fan of sushi or celebrities, you will probably have heard of Nobu. From London to Milan, New York to Hong Kong, there are now outposts of the Japan-inspired hotel and restaurant in many glittering international locations, all loved by the A-list. It’s even co-owned by one of them – Robert De Niro. There are three in London – interestingly, Nobu Old Park Lane in Mayfair was the first to open outside of the US, in 1997 – and the Shoreditch hotel and restaurant has recently reopened following a refurbishment. A sixth floor has been added – the Penthouse floor. Guests can now stay in the serene, beautifully styled new Yuhi bedrooms, a perfect respite from the frenetic energy of Shoreditch below. Brummell came for the Nobu restaurant that’s found on the ground floor, which offers the menu classics the brand has become known for.

The space

Nobu Shoreditch is tucked away in a quieter pocket just off Great Eastern Street, giving it a fittingly east London “if you know, you know” feel. The building itself is a creative affair, all concrete, glass and steel and somehow it channels a Japanese essence through its clean lines and angles. Some discreet stairs lead off the street down through the lush, architectural gardens of the Nami Bar courtyard. Ideal for summer weather that’s a bit unpredictable, we grabbed a refreshing highball cocktail (the Ginza, a mix of Suntory Toki whisky, grape and apricot soda and bitters was a hit) and nestled in between some ferns and reeds outside, taking in the evening sunshine before heading into the low lighting of the main restaurant. As we entered the dining area for dinner, we received a warm welcome in Japanese, readying us for the attentive and knowledgeable service to follow. The space itself feels large and open, with calm neutrals and sleek, minimalist furniture ready to seat 240 guests. Every detail – from tableware to drinking glasses – has been thoughtfully considered. Even the bathrooms are a zen oasis complete with Natura Bissé luxury hand products, ushering you out in a comforting cloud of fragrance.

Sashimi Salad with Matsuhisa dressing. Photograph: Steven Freeman
Sashimi Salad with Matsuhisa dressing. Photograph: Steven Freeman

The menu

Every Nobu sticks to a menu created by namesake chef, Nobu Matsuhisa, a pioneer of Japanese and Peruvian fusion food, but expect local tweaks and additions. Heading up Nobu Shoreditch is executive chef Sandi Richmond. The menu is split into cold and hot dishes, sushi maki, nigiri and sashimi, as well as tempura, kushiyaki, Waygu beef, vegetables and even tacos. Many are Nobu classics, but it’s worth asking your server for any specials and Nobu Shoreditch exclusives. We were a bit overwhelmed with the variety – everything sounded delicious – and thankfully our waitress did a fantastic job of curating a sharing meal for us from all the options. Every dish was artfully presented, and the effort put in was clear before any chopsticks even got involved. The crispy rice with spicy tuna arrived cooked into crunchy, neat little cubes on individual sticks, ready to receive the delicate and flavoursome spicy tuna, while the baby tiger shrimp “popcorn” with ponzu sauce – a staple on the menu for 20 years – is a generous dish of bite-sized parcels. The ponzu dressing cuts through and really complements the flavours. As the various dishes arrived, we sipped on a cold Asahi and a Nami Spritz (13 El Dorado Rum 3 years, cherries, raspberries, blood orange, apple juice, rhubarb and raspberry). For a light but moreish side, the shiitake mushroom salad is a must – it arrives as a glorious pile of star-cut mushroom discs on a bed of fresh, crunchy salad leaves. Who knew a seemingly simple salad could look quite so spectacular?

To really get a special taste of Japan, we opted for the Japanese Wagyu Beef (grade A5), prepared tataki style. The thinnest slivers of marbled meat arrived presented spread out in the centre of the plate, much like the petals of (incredibly delicious) flower. To finish off a simply fantastic spread, we opted for the ice cream-filled mochi. Start with the matcha and finish with the mango for a wonderfully sharp-but-fruity palate cleanser.

The bill

Cocktails at Nami Bar, followed by dinner and drinks for two: £230

Final verdict

With an outdoor terrace and large indoor bar, Nami Bar is the perfect spot for summer evening drinks with friends and has an extensive drinks list of cocktails, beers, wines and sake. Nobu restaurant, however, is a special occasion affair – go with anyone you want to while away a night with over memorable dishes!

london-shoreditch.nobuhotels.com