The founder of Mexican restaurant Cavita opens up about her time in the kitchen and her newest project
London’s food scene can feel like a revolving door of up-and-coming hot spots, culinary trends and star chefs. But you can always rely on a diverse selection of cuisines. Searching for a good Italian? Head to Soho and you’ll stumble upon at least seven highly rated restaurants. A sucker for Spanish small plates? We’re sure you’ve heard of Alta. But a good, authentic Mexican is like trying to pick out the single flavour of almonds in a mole poblano – notoriously tricksy.
But then, in 2022, Adriana Cavita opened up her debut restaurant in Marylebone to glowing reviews, determined to do Mexican flavours justice.
Growing up in San Felipe Ixtacuixtla, Adriana was first introduced to the kitchen by her grandmother, who owned a street-food business selling antojitos mexicanos made from rolled corn tortillas. At just 19 she worked at Pujol – previously ranked at 13 in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, before landing a place as chef de partie at Michelin-starred El Bulli and later Lalo! in Mexico City.
Its Adriana’s blend of fine dining with her nostalgic memories of Mexican flavour that gives Cavita its charm. Here, we talk to the founder on her vision for the restaurant and what comes next.
What is your earliest memory of being in the kitchen?
I remember my grandma milling corn to prepare the dough to make tortillas.
You’ve had a lifelong love for art and architecture. How have both of these informed the way you construct a dish?
For me, cooking is a way to express myself, but also a way to transmit and share culture, history and stories. I have always loved architecture, art and design, where textures and colours interact. For me, art is about creating beautiful things that stay in people’s minds or make them think or feel something.
When it comes to food, I try to create dishes that are both delicious and beautiful – dishes that stay in a person’s soul, make them feel something new, or remind them of a feeling or a place.
When you opened Cavita, what did it represent for you, and how does it embody your culinary vision today?
Opening Cavita as a Mexican woman in the UK represented a big achievement, a space where I can share Mexican food, culture and art. But it’s also a place where I can support other people (chefs, waiters, bartenders, event organisers, artists) who are looking to change how we interact in hospitality by being more conscious of each other and our individual struggles.
My vision of the restaurant is more like a live space where we can interact as a community. Where I can open up conversations that look far beyond just food and drink. On its first anniversary, I organised a fundraiser to help reforest the Amazon, supporting a project called Yorenka Tasorentsi.
The third year I spoke about illegal tomato plantations deforesting the Wirikuta desert, one of the most biodiverse deserts on Earth.
For the upcoming fourth anniversary, I want to support a charity that raises awareness about trafficking and supports its survivors. This situation is very difficult around the world, but in Mexico it is a growing issue related to drug trafficking. I would like to invite people to think about how it can massively affect the lives of women and children, as well as natural reserves, especially in Latin America.
Cavita restaurant in Marylebone
Is there a dish on the Cavita menu that feels especially personal to you, and why?
I started making the hamachi tostada almost 10 years ago and people love it. It reminds me of my own journey. I also love fish prepared zarandeado [grilled] style, as it reminds me of going to the beach in Mexico and enjoying a relaxed gathering with family, eating whole fish and making my own taquitos.
The professional kitchen can be an intense and male-dominated environment. What has been your experience navigating it as a woman?
It’s definitely not easy at all, as it takes a lot more effort to be heard by men or even other women. Sadly, sexual harassment was fairly normal, which is crazy to think about now. However, I also found men who are very supportive and recognise my efforts. I hope the landscape continues to change and we can see more women sharing their experiences, too. I want to see more women being recognised and seen for their amazing work and daily effort.
What advice would you give to women who wish to pursue a career in professional kitchens?
It’s very important to follow your path and if you really love this profession, go for it. Find places that support women – healthy environments where you can learn and flourish.
What’s next for Adriana Cavita?
I’m about to launch a new project, where I want to share the side of Mexico that I truly love – its food, culture, history, adventures and spirituality. Through this project, I also hope to give people a deeper understanding of what Cavita is really about.
Cavita, 56-60 Wigmore Street, London W1U 2RZ; cavitarestaurant.com
