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Food and drink
28 February 2022

Top tipple: Justerini & Brooks

Words: 
Jemima Wilson
Food and drink
28 February 2022

Top tipple: Justerini & Brooks

Words: 
Jemima Wilson

Tod Bradbury, head of rare and collectable whiskies at the spirit and wine merchants, on how every bottle has a story to tell and building a whisky collection

How and why did you start working in the world of whisky?

I grew up in Crieff, in Scotland, which houses the oldest known whisky distillery at Glenturret. My parents still live in a house that was said to be owned by the distillery. My grandfather was instrumental in supporting the growth of Johnnie Walker into Africa in the 1950s, so he has had a huge influence on my whisky journey. We are from a long line of ‘self-proclaimed whisky experts’! I’ve now spent more than 15 years in the industry, immersing myself in the distilleries and learning about the craftsmanship that goes into making some of the rarest Scotch whiskies in the world.

Can you explain your role at Justerini & Brooks and what it entails?

Very simply, I help to build whisky collections for my customers ­– sourcing casks or bottlings that I think they will enjoy. I cover the four corners of Scotland, and have access to a wide range of distilleries, from Brora and Talisker to Lagavulin and Mortlach, so I am often travelling with my clients. Building those relationships is one of the most exciting parts of the job – finding someone who perhaps doesn´t know what they like yet and taking them on a journey of taste and discovery.

Tell us about the 3,264-mile solo sail across the Atlantic, which sailor and filmmaker James Aiken embarked on with the Talisker 43-Year-Old Xpedition Oak: The Atlantic Challenge.

James embarked on this arduous solo expedition across the Atlantic Ocean at the beginning of the pandemic, with the aim of mirroring the expedition the MacAskill brothers (who founded Talisker) undertook in 1830 from the Isle of Eigg to the formidable shores of the Isle of Skye. James took the staves from the whisky casks that would then be used to make the Talisker 43 Xpedition Oak on the journey with him, which adds to the rugged maritime notes that are found in this unique blend – a piece of which is included with each bottle.

How did the partnership with James come about and what made it so special?

James and the team at Talisker had been working on the idea for some time and, as an adventurer, James was the perfect person to take on the 3,264-mile sailing journey that followed the same route as the rowers of the annual Talisker Whisky Atlantic Challenge. James had been working on a film project for Talisker when they asked him if he had any plans to cross the Atlantic, as they had a challenge in mind for their latest release – the 43-Year-Old. “I love whisky, and Talisker, and crossing the Atlantic seemed to be the next natural step, the pinnacle of my life at sea,” said James.

Why is it important for a whisky to tell a story?

Having a connection to the whisky in your collection is essential. In effect, you are choosing a piece of liquid history, each distinctive to a moment in the distillery’s history – whether working or ghost (no longer producing). One more bottle opened is one fewer in the world. I always recommend not only to taste, taste, taste, but also to visit the distilleries themselves; speaking to the people who make them, learning the art of the craft and discovering the stories behind particular bottlings, such as the Talisker 43 or the Prima & Ultima range. This helps to understand why certain expressions are collectable and different.

What would your advice be to those thinking of starting a whisky collection?

Before building a collection, I always suggest working out the style of whisky you like. Think about different regions, flavour profiles ­– smoky, sweet, peaty, grassy, salty etc – malt or grain whiskies, and start tasting! Visiting a distillery is a great way of getting to know the process and understanding what goes into making whisky. It also means you can taste whiskies from that distillery and get a good understanding of their style. Once you know what you like and what you want, you can start building your collection.

Which are the first three whiskies you would recommend investing in?

For me, whisky is a passion investment: anything I buy I would always be happy to drink and enjoy. I always look out for whiskies that have some rarity or scarcity to them – from how many bottles are produced, to how it was made, such as a rare cask finish or an unusual age statement. A perfect example of this would be the Cask of Distinction bottles – each bottle is available in tiny quantities drawn from just one cask. Or the Prima & Ultima range, which showcases firsts and lasts from the distilleries. Both would be a great way to start collecting whisky.

Are there any whiskies at Justerini & Brooks that you are particularly excited about at the moment?

Certainly, there is always something to discover! I am particularly excited about the Johnnie Walker 48-year-old – it’s the third in the Masters series and there are only 288 available in the world. I’m also looking forward to trying the Singleton 39-year-old, which has been aged in ex-port, red wine, Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks. I have loved discovering the bottles from the Prima & Ultima second release – particularly the Lagavulin and the Linkwood. Have a look out for any ghost or closed distilleries such as Convalmore or Port Ellen, which always pique peoples’ interest.

justerinis.com

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