At a time when certain elements in the watch industry are hoping to eliminate the notion of “men’s” and “ladies” watches, Patek Philippe enjoys and celebrates femininity. The Genevoise maison was so convinced in the self-assurance of its distaff clientele that in 2009 it introduced the in-house Calibre CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement not in a men’s watch, but one for women, in the Ref 7071R. That movement can now be found in a round-cased model, the Ref 7150/250R.

The importance of launching a chronograph calibre in a ladies’ watch requires a look at the gender politics of watch buying. Mixed signals have kept the entire watch industry on its toes ever since the wristwatch revival picked up speed in the late 1990s and into the noughties. While female clients once were less likely to be watch collectors or enthusiasts than male buyers, they were moving away from the primary influence of aesthetic elements, and toward greater horological awareness.

Part of the change was due to stylish women, especially in Milan and Paris, wearing men’s watches, traditionally 8mm or 10mm larger than so-called ladies’ watches. A result of this led to quartz being supplanted by mechanical movements – just like the boys’ watches – while complications were increasing in importance. Patek Philippe chose to ignore gender boundaries with new models that, ironically, were close to being “unisex” because of the movements and the sizes. Observers took notice.

In the Calibre CH 29-535 PS, what Patek Philippe gave first to its female clients rather than to the men was a manually wound movement. That in itself was a vote of confidence in the increased sophistication of the women’s market because automatic movements have long been the default purchases for most customers, regardless of gender. A manual movement requires hands-on commitment rather than the set-and-forget usage of quartz or automatic movements (if, that is, the latter are worn daily). The new chronograph calibre was, regardless of the case in which it was housed, an enthusiast’s movement.

Based on the preferred-bychronograph-devotees architecture of column-wheel control and a geared clutch system, the CH 29-535 PS introduced six patented innovations to occupy the technically minded. Certified with the Patek Philippe Seal, the movement features a large chronograph sweep hand, a 60-seconds sub-dial, and a jumping-hand 30-minute counter. Ameliorating the inconvenience (for some) of its manual-wind status is a power reserve of 65 hours.

Its new home, the Ref 7150/ 250R, consists of a rose gold case 38mm in diameter and 10.59mm thick, water-resistant to 30m. In prehistoric, macho terms, that is what once would have defined a man’s watch. Patek Philippe cleverly outfitted the timepiece with adornments that circa 2022 defy gender, especially as masculinity no longer eschews the presence of gems.

Among the 7150/250R’s details are two round guillochéd pushers and cambered sapphire-crystal “box” glass. The dial is silvery opaline, fitted with applied Breguet numerals, which are addressed by Breguet hands, with pulsometer markings. This is framed by a bezel set with 72 diamonds, with a further 27 diamonds on the prong buckle, for a total of 99. The movement can be seen through the sapphire-crystal case back.

Dare anyone call it a ladies’ watch? Patek Philippe just might have inspired a new type of role reversal, as this watch could turn the tables on who borrows what: boyfriends or husbands might be appropriating 7150/250Rs from girlfriends or wives.

£70,590; patek.com