The unctuous anchovy has many historical credentials and is now regarded as an unmissable fixture in the larder, says the author of a new book on the humble fish
My very own anchovies-on-toast reel went viral recently, attracting more than 220,000 views. Had Instagram, perish the thought, existed in Roman times the appreciation would have been rapturous then, too. These tiny but mighty fish have a place in history as well as an important role in the kitchen.
The Romans were as anchovy obsessed as we are today. Traditionally the little silvery, blue preserved fish were used to ratchet up the flavour of other ingredients. They were used to enhance forcemeat stuffings of birds before roasting, to lard a chicken (a hack of mine to “anchovise” is to insert anchovy pieces into the skin of a roasting chicken, smear with butter, lemon juice and seasoning and add bread croutons for the last 15 to soak up the umami-enriched juices) as well as add depth to sauces – rather than featuring as the focus ingredient of a dish, as anchovies often do today.
Elaborate salmagundi, large composed salads, that featured at medieval banquets included anchovies and pickled oysters as well as meat, seafood, vegetables, pickles, fruit and nuts. Both Shakespeare in Henry IV, Part 1 and diarist Samuel Pepys mention anchovies, associating them with evenings of drinking. It is a partnership that continues, for what is a bloody mary without anchovy-spiked Worcestershire sauce?
Illustration by Lucia Calfapietra / @luciacalfapietra
Patum Peperium or The Gentleman’s Relish, always “spread sparingly”, is another vintage brand. It was created by John Osborn, an expatriate English provisions merchant living in Paris who exhibited it at the 1849 Paris Food Show. The anchovy paste with a kick was enjoyed by James Bond in For Your Eyes Only, and Nigella Lawson once shared that it is one of the 10 foods she could not live without.
What makes me extra fond of Patum Peperium is that it adds lively verve to vastly underrated Scotch woodcock, a trad-Edwardian-era savoury dish served after the main meal. The relish is spread thinly on buttered toast and topped with creamy, softly scrambled eggs, made with cream and strewn with further anchovies, capers and a shake of cayenne pepper.
It is regularly on the menu for breakfast at St John, is offered on request at the venerable Wiltons, and Sam White, executive chef of Fortnum & Mason, an enthusiastic anchovy lover, regularly has Scotch woodcock on the menu at 45 Jermyn St. Sadly, the product looks due to be discontinued.
Monika Linton of the Brindisa restaurants has a lot to answer for in elevating Londoners’ expectations regarding anchovies. She introduced Ortiz anchovies which truly set a new benchmark of anchovy quality. I am never without them in my fridge (all quality anchovies should be stored in the fridge ideally).
For me, as the self-proclaimed anchovy evangelist, nothing beats enjoying the best, most meticulously prepared, velvety textured, richly complex anchovies “naked” in all their glory. For those of us who worship at the altar of the anchovy, there is no better addition to a menu or a dish.
The anchovy has never been more thoughtfully used in many forms on menus across London. While I am not in favour of too much adornment and will often eat a can of anchovies sourced from the brilliant The Tinned Fish Market in Borough Market straight from the tin, I do relish some of the more creative anchovy servings. Here is my pick of those to seek out for the dedicated and curious new anchovy lover.
FOR ANCHOVY AFICIONADOS IN LONDON
Legado, Nieves Barragán Mohacho’s new Shoreditch restaurant, does it like in Cantabria: served on a beautifully tailored brioche slice with whipped and slightly smoked cheese. Visit Dapur, a Malaysian café serving nasi lemak (rice cooked in coconut milk with pandan leaf and served with sambal chilli sauce, a fried egg and a crunchy anchovy and peanut topping), or sign up for Judy Ang-McGuire’s 3 Dumpling supperclubs and look out for when nasi lemak is next on the menu.
New Southern France-inspired restaurant Maset in Marylebone has panisse (chickpea fries) with anchöiade (a Provençal condiment made with anchovies), while Bottle & Rye in Brixton has divine anchovy grilled toast with butter tandsmør – is spread thickly enough that you can see your teeth marks.
It is impossible to go to Bocca di Lupo without ordering the Roman-style sage and anchovy fritters as a snack nor Lilibet’s in Mayfair without ordering the delectable anchovy eclairs. They invariably feature on top anchovy fiend Jeremy Lee’s menus at Quo Vadis, whether porchetta tonnato or a seasonal Roman puntarelle (fennel, bread, anchovy and parmesan salad).
Likewise, the Ben Tish-overseen Cubitt House pubs are always anchovy-forward with starters, such as The Coach Makers Arms, offering roast leeks, kohlrabi, black garlic, smoked anchovies and cured egg yolk.
Sudi Pigott’s book, Consider the Anchovy: a Journey in Pursuit of the Little Fish With theBig Flavour, is published by Headline Home, £20
