While even casual watch fans can reel off the names of famous timepieces, it’s rare that the movements themselves get the spotlight. However Zenith has become synonymous with its revolutionary high-frequency El Primero calibre, which brought a new level of precision and performance when it launched in 1969. 

Such a mechanical marvel deserves appreciation, and in recent decades the watchmaker has dedicated itself to unveiling the inner workings on the dial. This started in 2003 with the Chronomaster Open, the first time that a chronograph has featured a partially open dial revealing the regulating organ and escapement. 

For 2022, a new generation of the model continues in this tradition, this time showcasing the modern El Primero 3604. This highly accurate automatic movement incorporates a 1/10th of a second automatic chronograph, while delivering a handy power reserve of 60 hours.

At its core, the design echoes that of the iconic A386, the first watch powered by the El Primero in 1969. This is particularly seen in its distinctive tri-colour chronograph counters, in shades of blue and grey. Here it is interpreted with a contemporary twist, with the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock entirely cut out to offer a glimpse of the silicon star-shaped escape wheel. However, it cleverly still serves as a readable sub-dial because of the hesalite crystal element on top. 

Elsewhere, Zenith has made some sophisticated modern updates. The 39.5mm case has a svelter silhouette compared with previous models, with slimmed-down lugs, while the pump-style pushers have rounded tips, improving ease of use. Available in steel with a black or white dial, it comes presented on a steel bracelet with polished and satin-brushed finishes that reflect those seen on the case, as well as a cordura-effect rubber strap. Meanwhile, a luxe rose-gold version is paired with a white dial and blue rubber strap. 

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