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Watches and jewellery
08 June 2023

Shipshape fashion: Audemars Piguet

Words: 
Shane C Kurup
Watches and jewellery
08 June 2023

Shipshape fashion: Audemars Piguet

Words: 
Shane C Kurup

Audemars Piguet’s flagship Royal Oak Offshore turns 30 this year – and has lost none of its racy appeal

When it comes to grail watches that make both collectors and novices drool, Audemars Piguet has a catalogue which most horology houses dream of, courtesy of its two biggest hitters – the Royal Oak and the Royal Oak Offshore, which has been at the top of the cult watch pecking order for three decades.

The Offshore’s roots are anchored in the codes of the iconic Royal Oak, which itself raised the bar on its launch in 1972. At a time when a gold watch was the ultimate status symbol for the upwardly mobile professional, the Royal Oak – the world’s first luxury steel watch – seemed something of a gamble. But this was no ordinary steel ticker. It was created by Gérald Genta, arguably the greatest watch designer of the 20th century, who, with a few strokes of his sketching pen, devised one of the most successful and emulated watches of all time.

By the early ’90s, the Royal Oak – named after a series of Royal Navy warships – was nearing 20 years old. Audemars Piguet wanted a new concept watch with its own ability to capture the zeitgeist – and the Royal Oak Offshore was the result.

Like its forerunner, it had a distinctive hexagonal shape and screw-embellished bezel, which, in a nod to the model’s namesake, mimics a ship’s porthole. But the similarities ended there. The Offshore, with its souped-up, 42mm profile, had a Herculean wrist presence alongside the default 36mm cases of the day.

The new black 43mm Royal Oak Offshore is a tribute to 1999’s End of Days edition

The new black 43mm Royal Oak Offshore is a tribute to 1999’s End of Days edition

This first muscle watch went on to achieve cult status with the younger generation, who were seeking an alternative to the demure timepieces of their parents.

To mark the watch’s milestone 30th year, the firm has released four models, including an all-black design inspired by the 1993 original. The stealthy model, which incorporates a chronograph, is the first Offshore to have a case and bracelet made from ceramic. Another ceramic chronograph includes yellow-gold elements, while a third ceramic flying tourbillon model with a green rubber strap is the sportiest of the quartet.

After 250 editions since its debut in 1993, there’s no sign of this speedster slowing down – and with these milestone models, Audemars Piguet’s buffest boat has come in.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 30th anniversary editions from £51,800; audemarspiguet.com

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