In the heart of Vienna, Ruby Hotels offers playful design just steps from the city’s many iconic Christmas markets
Weaving through a garlanded maze of wooden huts and the smell of lebkuchen, I search out what I came here for. Namely, käsespätzle– those deliciously pillowy noodles, oozing with molten cheese and topped with sweet caramelised onion. One forkful and I’m in Viennese heaven.
Vienna is one of Europe’s most sought-after fairytale winter destinations, home to more than 20 Christmas markets. With big crowds drawn to the likes of Rathausplatz and Schönbrunn Palace, a more local experience can be found at Freyungplatz, which is where I find myself – at the Hüftgold market stand, picking up my second mini Christstollen to round off my gastronomic exploration of the city’s festive markets. Thankfully I’m only a kilometre away from my refuge for the night.
Inspired by Empress Elisabeth of Austria and her globe-trotting diplomacy, Ruby Lissi robes itself in a rebellious, tongue-in-cheek regality. Royal portraits are emblazoned with anarchic pleas to “steal back your life!” and antique luggage is neatly stacked for the sovereign’s next adventure.
It seems fitting to stay here when the rest of the city hums with the memory of the former Queen of Hungary. “Sisi stars” (named after the diamond stars the empress, affectionately called Sisi, wore in her hair) can be found at various stalls replicated with Swarovski crystals, and – on a grander scale – illuminating the Neuer Markt.
With a 24-hour bar on-site, kitted out with plush, button-back sofas and leather banquettes, it’s a casually grand affair. Who could refuse the hotel’s signature cocktail, a “weisser spritzer”, after a day of exploring, before heading up for a restful night in one of its 107 guest rooms.
Renowned for its lean-luxury philosophy, Ruby Hotels’ rooms are thoughtfully designed for laid-back comfort, with streamlined interiors, rainfall showers, aromatherapy care products and fluffy oversized bedding.
Ruby Lissi’s sister hotels – Ruby Sofie and Ruby Marie – are similarly primely situated in the City of Dreams. Both are individually designed to honour their respective heritage: Ruby Sofie’s origins as the Sofiensäle, a 19th-century bathhouse-turned-music venue, and Ruby Marie’s as Austria’s original department store, otherwise known as Gerngross.
What ties each Ruby Hotel together is a sense of understated luxury – a modern nod to the city’s opulent past without the weight of formality. Every detail feels intentional: soft lighting, curated playlists and a relaxed self-check-in that makes the experience feel more like stepping into your own pied-à-terre than a hotel stay.
I may have come to Vienna for the food, but what I’ve found instead is a kind of signature hospitality that lasts much longer than my käsespätzle.
