Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reflected on the plastic nature of both the body and architecture in their spring/summer 2024 collection, presented in June at Milan Fashion Week. Walking into the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada, one could feel that something powerful was about to happen. The steel-coated space, which felt brighter than usual, seemed to be ready to stage a transformation. Pushing the notion of fluidity to the extreme, the creative duo amazed the audience when a waterfall of slime poured down from the ceiling, creating ephemeral walls between the models and the guests. The clothes, however, translate the idea of motion in a less literal way.

The Prada SS 24 collection is heavy on tailoring.

Inspired by the hyper-structured male silhouette in vogue during the 1940s, the collection is heavy on tailoring. ‘We began everything from the idea of shirting: its structure, its lightness,’ said Simons. Somewhere between a blazer and a shirt, the tops feature boxy shoulders and elongated sleeves. Nevertheless, the choice of the fabric – a silky yet crisp cotton poplin – assures a soft and graceful feel. The jackets come tucked into tailored high-waist shorts, offering an hourglass figure atypical of the menswear wardrobe. ‘The body is not something you can see as still, which very often it is in a sartorial sense – it ends up being a very architectural construction and the body is restricted,’ added the Belgian designer.

Inspired by the hyper-structured male silhouette

Elsewhere, decorations come alive on shirts with an organic proliferation of colourful corsages and fringes, bringing an unexpected playfulness. The stiffness of the eyewear and the hairbands – also used as invitations to the show – is in open contrast with the loose shape of the bags, which become supple and squashy.

A supple and squashy bag juxtaposes the structure of the jacket

‘Life and understanding of life is so complex; simplicity can be too simple,’ said Ms Prada at the end of the show. ‘We were interested, rather, in this elaboration, in this expansion. Sophistication of thoughts allows a reconsideration of simple things.’

Decorations come alive on shirts

An organic proliferation of colourful corsages