Strange flavours, wine pairings and sorbet-stuffed tacos – these are the most interesting places to chill out this summer
Funky ice-creams have been in fashion for a while – quite literally so at designer Anya Hindmarch’s annual pop-up known for its adventurous flavours like baked beans, soy sauce and pickled onions (alongside other, more palatable options). But this summer, as temperatures rise and cooling down becomes a citywide sport, ice-cream spots are popping up all over London – and they’re anything but traditional. Forget the Mr Whippy vans of your childhood or the gelato parlours of your Italian holidays. These are places doing genuinely interesting things with ice-cream – from unexpected flavours to glou-glou wine pairings. Here are five for your radar.
The Ice Cream Project by Anya Hindmarch
Now in its fourth year, Anya Hindmarch’s high-summer concept store returns with another freezerful of flavours that veer from the nostalgic to the downright bizarre; this year’s lineup includes Bird’s custard, Flying Goose sriracha and Bisto gravy. Queues build fast, so arrive early if you’re eyeing a tub, or book the blind-tasting tea for a guaranteed seat. You’ll try up to 15 scoops with no clues as to which is what, guessing each one with a score card and pencil like a very stylish pub quiz.

The Ice Cream Project (runs until 17 August), 11 Pont Street, SW1X 9EH; anyahindmarch.com
Zapote’s ice-cream taco parlour
Taco traditionalists, turn away now. Zapote – the east London spot known for its modern Mexican cooking – has launched an ice-cream taco parlour in its bar. The pop-up serves ice-cream tacos through the front window, with creations like charcoal-infused shells stuffed with chamoy and mango sorbet, or blue corn ice-cream sprinkled with caramelised popcorn. Mezcal tastings are available, too – who knows, mezcal and mango sorbet might become your new favourite pairing.

Zapote, 70 Leonard Street, EC2A 4QX; zapote.co.uk
Bébé Bob x Happy Endings
Bébé Bob has always had a thing for playful pairings – eg, fried chicken and champagne, burgers and caviar – and now it’s adding ice-cream to the mix. In collaboration with cult dessert brand Happy Endings, the restaurant is dishing up soft-serves like sour cream topped with caviar and a Bébé Champagne Bomb made with a bellini core and champagne ice-cream. Naturally, it’s all best enjoyed with a glass of fizz or Bébé martini – because Bébé Bob wouldn’t have it any other way.

Bébé Bob, 37 Golden Square, W1F 9LB; bebebob.com
The Dreamery
Which rosé goes best with a raspberry ice-cream? How about which red you’d reach for alongside a strawberry sorbet? These are the – frankly, vital – questions posed at The Dreamery, an ice-cream parlour and wine bar directly beside Goodbye Horses in Islington. The space is small but surreal, with a kaleidoscopically bright ceiling, wall of wine bottles and rotating range of creative ice-creams – which, with the help of the bar staff, you can pair with your favourite tipple.

The Dreamery, 20a Halliford Street, N1 3HD; dreamery.london
Birley Bakery
With its ochre awning and lacquered burgundy doors, Birley Bakery looks more like a Mayfair members’ club than a Chelsea pastry shop – which makes sense, given it’s owned by Robin Birley. This summer, it’s launched a new selection of ice-creams from its shopfront hatch, including creations like a honey and nougat number laced with candied lemon and orange, and a herby citrus-mint-coriander-parsley blend – a great between-courses palate cleanser after you’ve made the most of the excellent pastries.

Birley Bakery, 28-30 Cale Street, SW3 3QU; birleybakery.com
Cakes & Bubbles at Hotel Café Royal
A Michelin-starred pastry chef, Yellow Label Veuve and a wicker bike basket full of ice cream: it’s easy to see the appeal of Hotel Café Royal’s summer pop-up. Its in-house café, Cake & Bubbles, has added a bunch of posh new desserts to its already sophisticated menu – including a new ice cream bicycle stand offering homemade scoops to take away. We’re eyeing up the sorbet, a refreshing blend of rose, raspberry and lychee, although the pistachio ice cream remains a fan favourite.

Hotel Café Royal, 10 Air St, W1B 5AB; hotelcaferoyal.com