Hublot’s flagship Big Bang design tells the story of two Hublots. In the late 1970s, Italian-born Carlo Crocco passed up the chance to take over the family watchmaking company to strike out on his own and in 1980, launched Hublot in Geneva. The name means “porthole” in French and the first watch had a gold case and porthole-inspired bezel. It won loyal followers, but Hublot didn’t break through into the big time until this century, with the arrival of a man adept at turbocharging watch brands.

Industry svengali Jean-Claude Biver took over as CEO in 2004 and the Big Bang was the first watch under his leadership. The porthole bezel remained, as did a rubber strap. But while the original Hublot was an unassuming 36mm diameter, the Big Bang was a muscular 44.5mm chronograph. At the 2005 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, it won Best Design. The watch contributed to a reported eight-fold increase in revenue under Biver’s leadership.

It also contributed to a trend for large watches that is only just easing now. But it was never just about size. The watch took Hublot’s dedication to mixing unusual materials and ran with it, establishing the Art of Fusion concept. Cases have combined Kevlar and gold, ceramic and steel. There have been straps made of silk and denim, along with million-dollar, diamond-encrusted limited editions.

The range has also expanded to appeal to as many people as possible, so now you can buy one as small as 33mm. That is compact, but there is no obligation for total discretion – it is available in a King Gold Rainbow version, whose 18K gold case is set with 130 coloured gemstones.

Hublot’s latest limited edition is at the more sober end of the scale, with a 42mm satin-brushed titanium case. The Big Bang Unico Essential Grey is powered by Hublot’s in-house HUB1280 chronograph movement, with 72-hour power reserve. The satin finishing is continued on the bezel, dial and hands for a stylishly monochrome look. It comes with interchangeable rubber strap and a Velcro-fastening fabric band. It is limited to 200 pieces and sold exclusively online at hublot.com, a first for the brand. According to Ricardo Guadalupe – who took over as CEO in 2012 – this is to ‘emphasise how important e-commerce has become in our thinking’. He added: ‘All our fans, collectors and potential clients now have an equal chance to obtain this magnificent and rare new model.’

Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey, £17,300; hublot.com