The atmosphere before Gucci’s autumn/winter 23 show was anything but light-hearted. It was the first one since Alessandro Michele left the creative helm of the brand last November, and outside the Gucci Hub in Via Mecenate, there was a palpable mix of tension, excitement and burning curiosity.

Music was a pivotal muse for Gucci’s creative team, who took over the direction of the brand in the interim as the search for a new creative director continued behind the scenes. Playing centre stage on a circular podium, Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog electrified the venue with the trio’s blend of jazz and punk influences, while artists including Nick and Susie Cave, Kai and Ghali watched from the front row.

From the very first look – a white tee and oversized khaki trousers – it was clear that “simplification” is the key takeaway for this autumn/winter outing. In a mashup of contrasting influences from music genres through the decades, the collection conveyed a more streamlined touch than Michele’s highly stratified aesthetic that we had become used to.

Details and accessories

1970s-inspired tailoring was refreshed with sharp raw cuts, while structured motorcycle garments took inspiration from vibrant multicoloured sportswear from the ’80s. And then there was workwear worn in a loose ’90s manner, along with flared denim trousers and a long checked skirt that hid the silhouette. Tops with the deepest V-necks, sailor beanie hats and slouchy ankle boots recalled the “Indie Sleaze” rock’n’roll style of the noughties and 2010s.

This oversized bag was one of many nostalgic throwbacks

There were also pleasing nods to the past in the form of Tom Ford-era hardware, which sealed off oversized bags, and the much-loved Princetown backless shearling loafers which have returned with a chunkier silhouette. “Crystal GG” is the new interpretation of the house’s monogrammed canvas, and it appeared throughout the leather accessories.

The difficult task of delivering a collection while in creative director limbo has been accomplished without any shock or surprise. Although Gucci has turned the volume down a bit, it has retained its laid-back, slightly romanticised take on masculinity. We’ll have to wait until September 2023 to find out what direction Gucci takes under its new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, appointed two weeks after the show.