Michelin-starred chef and restaurateur Emily Roux talks to Brummell about mentorship, modern kitchens and her obsession with garlic chilli oil
Despite being part of one of the most prestigious families in the British culinary world, Emily Roux honed her craft in the kitchens of Paris and Monaco, mastering haute cuisine on her own terms. Upon returning to the UK, she worked alongside her grandfather, the late Albert Roux OBE, and her father, Michel Roux Jr, continuing the family tradition with her distinctive touch. Today, she co-runs Caractère, a refined yet relaxed dining destination in the heart of Notting Hill, where French and Italian influences come together.
What can diners expect when they visit Caractère?
Diego and I created Caractère with the idea that it would be the kind of restaurant we’d love to dine at regularly, a space that feels unpretentious, comfortable and somewhat homely, with warm, friendly service. We wanted to offer delicious, well-crafted food that would be difficult to replicate at home.
The menu at Caractère is structured around mood and instinct. Are these elements essential to how you cook, or do you take a more rational approach in the kitchen?
There’s definitely an element of instinct involved, although we closely follow seasonality, which often guides our decisions. There’s also a lot of trial and error. A dish might be tested for several weeks or even months before the whole team is happy with it. And if we’re not 100 per cent satisfied, it simply won’t make it onto the menu.
How would you compare Italian and French culinary traditions?
I love both Italian and French cuisines. They share a deep-rooted passion for delicious “family-style” meals where generations gather around the table over authentic food and wine. Both also have strong regional identities: southern French cuisine, for instance, is more Mediterranean and olive oil-based, much like Italian food, while the north tends to use more butter and cream. In Italy, the contrast is just as vivid. Sicilian cuisine is entirely different from the rich, cheesy dishes you find in the north.
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever received in your career?
Good things come to those who wait. I used to be quite impatient – having kids and getting older has helped with that. I like to see progress and I’m very ambitious, so patience isn’t always easy. But that advice has stayed with me.
What significant changes have you seen in the culinary industry over the years?
A lot has changed since Covid, mostly for the better. People’s dining preferences have definitely evolved. Bistros, cafés and faster-paced dining spots where you can enjoy cocktails and good music are really popular right now. It seems guests are sometimes moving away from the longer, more expensive fine dining experiences, which is a shame. I think there’s a place for both, depending on the occasion.

Is there one ingredient you couldn’t live without?
I love spice. White pepper is indispensable, but my current obsession is a crisp garlic chilli oil. I put it on everything.
How would you describe the London dining scene today?
The London food scene has always fascinated me – it’s amazing. I think it easily rivals New York and Paris. We have everything from trendy neighbourhood spots and Michelin-starred restaurants to cosy pubs, pastry boutiques and incredible international cuisine.
What has been your proudest moment so far as a chef?
Getting our Michelin star in February was definitely the proudest moment. Diego and I couldn’t stop thinking about all our friends and family who’ve been with us on this journey since 2018 and, of course, our incredibly hardworking team who have believed in us from the start.
When you’re not at the restaurant, what do you enjoy cooking at home?
It’s pretty eclectic! I love making simple, delicious meals that feed the whole family. I have two little boys with surprisingly adventurous palates, so we do a lot of curries, Thai salads, roasts, hearty soups and batch-cooked salads. And if the fridge is empty, there’s always a stash of dim sum in the freezer.