We caught up with the head chef of Behind, the East London seafood restaurant that earned a Michelin star just 20 days after opening
Chef Andy Beynon is certainly not afraid of taking risks. He opened Behind in the midst of the pandemic as one of London’s few Michelin-starred restaurants dedicated exclusively to a fish-focused menu. In this interview, he shares his passion for ‘underrated’ seafood and how it takes centre stage in his hyper-seasonal creations.
Very few Michelin-starred restaurants are based in East London. What made you choose Hackney as the home for Behind?
I’ve been based in Hackney for a long time now. It’s an area I love living in and which has a lot of personal significance – my son was born in Homerton Hospital, so it’s sentimental to me. I also really admire the growth that is happening in this area, particularly in London Fields. There are a lot of great restaurants around, and we have a real community around us as there are many residential buildings around the restaurant.
Behind is now celebrating its fifth anniversary. You launched right in the middle of the pandemic – a difficult time for hospitality. Do you see yourself as someone who thrives on taking risks?
I suppose I do, yes. The opening was a big risk for me in general as the restaurant is totally self-funded, but it was a matter of time and circumstances – there weren’t a lot of restaurants opening around that time, and it seemed like a now or never situation. The risk ultimately paid off, and we are here 5 years later.
Dishes at Behind include Sicilian red prawns
Has your Italian heritage shaped your journey as a chef? Do you return to Italy often, and what aspects of Italian cuisine continue to inspire you?
It has. I believe in simplicity and flavour that come from freshness. It’s all about great ingredients as your base. I go to Italy at least once a year to visit family and to generally travel around the different regions in search of inspiration. Italy is a very varied country and you can never really get tired of it if you travel widely. My last trip was to Le Marche which is where my mum is from.
Diners at Behind get a rare, behind-the-scenes view of a Michelin-starred kitchen. What inspired you to create that level of openness?
I wanted to be different and to have no barriers between the guests and the kitchen. Behind is all about performance and openness. We want our guests to feel part of the action, so much so that we have a lower table that is practically in the kitchen. Many Michelin-level kitchens are very secretive, but not us. I do believe that great service means interacting with the guests, and our layout and way of introducing each dish by the chefs really enables that.
At Behind, dishes are served directly by the chefs. Do you find satisfaction – or even curiosity -in seeing diners react firsthand to what you’ve created?
It’s really inspiring for the chefs to have that direct feedback without asking. It’s a very immediate and honest response when guests are enjoying something and you can see it. For the team, it’s something that really motivates them and just feeds into our ethos of sharing and hospitality.
Your menu is entirely dedicated to fish. Where did that focus originate?
I’ve always loved fish and shellfish. I think it’s such an interesting and versatile product to cook with, and throughout my years in kitchens, that’s something that I gravitated towards. I also love the natural seasonings that come from the sea and seafood, such as seaweed and shells – I think it’s really inspiring to have these resources and to play around with them. At Behind, we try to use the freshest produce and to tap into its fullest potential – for example, we use dried-out fish scales as breadcrumbs.
Chef Andy Beynon
You’ve become known for reviving overlooked or underrated seafood. Which revival are you most proud of bringing to the table?
I really love a smoked kipper. It’s an East London staple. It used to be popular as a breakfast item, but at Behind we incorporate them into sauces – the depth of flavour is incredible. I have also been using Grey Mullet lately, it’s a really distinctive flavour that’s quite earthy and nutty, and I think it really rivals Wild Seabass.
Finally, what emotions or experiences do you hope your food evokes in guests dining at Behind?
I want my guests to have fun. I believe that fine dining is about having a good time and enjoying the experience as much as possible. Some may find it very daunting, but at Behind we do our best to make everyone feel comfortable and in the moment.
Behind restaurant, 20 Sidworth St, London E8 3SD. For reservations, see behindrestaurant.co.uk
