For AW25, Brunello Cucinelli presents artisanal knitwear inspired by embossed leather and illuminated by shimmering sequins and textured yarns
Brunello Cucinelli embodies effortless elegance, where refined craftsmanship meets the ease of everyday life. For its autumn/winter 2025 womenswear collection, the brand explores ideas of aesthetic and conceptual duality, and the balance between instinct and reason. It’s a study of contrasts: an exploration of how tradition, sophistication and formality can embrace spontaneity and creativity.
In terms of influences, the collection blends traditional equestrian and British-inflected styles with unexpected twists, channelling the spirit of the sport into a vibrant expression of everyday luxury. On the catwalk, draped kilts and pussy-bow blouses were paired with leather riding boots, also matched with cashmere-and-wool corduroy culottes, suede pencil skirts and denim-effect twill dresses, with leather belts and long gloves introducing an urban edge. Elsewhere, tufted, feathered and thickly cabled textures on capes, gilets, blousons and sweaters were layered over embellished Prince of Wales checks, tartans and heritage wools in the form of horse blazers, loose trousers, A-line dresses and even pleated miniskirts, many reimagined with a luminous edge thanks to thousands of sequins, creating a rich interplay of surface and shine, tradition and transformation.
Wool scarf and jacket
Crafted in the historic Umbrian village of Solomeo, this season the Cucinelli atelier’s savoir-faire shines through in knitwear and wool woven pieces. Intricately designed surfaces and details adorn refined silhouettes. Mohair cardigans feature rich, textured piles that have been carefully brushed to create a delicate, net-like base for hand embroidery. This meticulous process preserves the garment’s natural structure, resulting in a shimmering gradient effect that is soft, fluid and kinetic.
Alongside these dazzling dégradé embroidery pieces stands another masterpiece of technical ingenuity: a camel-coloured mohair and virgin-wool double-breasted coat. Relaxed dropped shoulders and an elegant “croc” pattern, inspired by embossed leather, lend the design a plush, cushioned appearance. This special construction combines yarns with different characteristics and open-work techniques, requiring at least 22 hours of craftsmanship. The final step is the delicate application of sequins, adding a refined shimmer to the coat, which is finessed with horn buttons and a silk-crepe lining.
Leather jacket and knitwear flat-cap
A quiet confidence runs throughout, shown in the contrast between the crisp, weightless look of some fabrics and the rich, tactile depth of others. The result is a wardrobe that feels modern, feminine and versatile, perfectly complementing the heritage craftsmanship of Solomeo.
