The background

On paper, High Street Kensington isn’t exactly where you’d expect to find a restaurant pulsing with the heat and rhythm of Latin America. Tucked just off the main drag – down a quiet cobbled lane that feels more Chelsea Flower Show than Copacabana – Zuaya is doing something unexpected. Opened by Madrid-born twin brothers Arian and Alberto Zandi when they were just 22, it was the first in what’s since become a growing family of stylish eateries under the Emerald Hospitality Group, which now includes Como Garden (next door) and El Norte in Mayfair.

The space

Zuaya does not do things by halves. From the moment you step off the street, it’s clear you’ve entered a maximalist jungle fever dream – and we mean that in the best way possible. The ground floor, where we were seated, is a riot of tropical foliage and glossy textures, with zigzag tiled floors, low-slung velvet chairs and just the right amount of gold to catch the candlelight. It’s buzzy but chilled, the sort of setting where you could just as easily sip mezcal on a date night or graze through sharing plates with friends.

Downstairs, things take a moodier turn. Known as “The Jungle”, it’s a sultry, low-lit space full of shadowy corners. There may have been no DJ the night we visited but you can tell it’s the kind of place where the tempo lifts as the evening rolls on.

The food

Zuaya’s latest menu is a vibrant trip across the South American continent – think ceviche, tacos, grilled meats and mango-laced sauces. It’s a culinary medley inspired by the twins’ travels through Peru, Brazil and Mexico, brought to life by executive chef Francisco Lafee – whose CV includes Barrafina and El Celler de Can Roca (no big deal).

Dinner kicked off with a handful of snacks that quietly stole the show. The guacamole – bright, fresh and piled high with sweet potato crisps – is a no-brainer, while the beef empanada brought that all-important oomph. A goat’s cheese and fig salad may sound tame, but it arrived with enough flair (and flavour) to earn its place on the table.

Things heated up with the mains. A grilled whole seabass, crisp-skinned and smothered in a jalapeño sauce, had just the right amount of fire, while the picanha steak landed with a smoky, charred edge that was sliced and served at the table. Sides were equally strong – thick-cut fried cassava for the crunch-lovers and rich caramelised sweet potato.

There was just enough room left for the passionfruit crème brûlée, which we washed down with two cocktails from the signature list – both easily reordered.

The bill

Roughly £175 for two, with cocktails.

The verdict

Zuaya is a colourful crowd-pleaser – the kind of place that knows exactly how to draw the crowds and do it with a flair. If you’re in the mood for bold flavours, beautiful surroundings and a bit of escapism without leaving Zone 1, it’s well worth the detour off the high street. 

zuaya.co.uk; 35B Kensington High Street, W8 5EB