The background  

While Indian cuisine might not be the first thing that comes to mind during the height of summer, Trishna – with its terrace doors flung open onto Blandford Street – makes a compelling case for it. This Michelin-starred restaurant is known for its refined take on coastal Indian cooking, and its latest seasonal menu, A Taste of the Western Ghats, is designed to be enjoyed alfresco. Running until the end of August and available for lunch and early evening, the menu celebrates spice-laden, ingredient-rich dishes that bring a fresh energy to the neighbourhood favourite.  

The space 

Sitting on the terrace, surrounded by low-slung café chairs, smart white tables and plenty of greenery hiding you from the street beyond, you are reminded of a tucked-away spot in the 6th arrondissement of Paris – but with a hint of spice on the breeze. Inside, the mood shifts to something more formal but, out on the terrace, the vibe is relaxed.  

The food 

London’s fine-dining Indian scene is a crowded one, with the likes of Gymkhana (and 42), Benares and Ambassadors Clubhouse offering different takes on high-end cooking. But Trishna holds its own with a distinctive point of view. Its new A Taste of the Western Ghats menu leans into the coastal flavours of the Konkan and Malabar regions, with a lightness and vibrancy that set it apart.  

Things begin with papads and chutneys that bounce between cooling and fiery, before moving onto a series of small plates. Koliwada squid and shrimp arrive golden and crisp, while the coconut and corn tikki and jackfruit and asparagus pepper fry showcase the power of veggies. 

The larger plates on offer are plentiful, and I couldn’t resist the beef short rib coconut fry that nods to the Ghats’ Syrian Christian community (one of the few beef-eating groups in India), served with podi uttapam. Everything lands with a supporting cast of moringa parippu curry, chettinad potato roast, basmati rice and pillowy naan breads.  

The wine list is one of the best of any Indian restaurant in the capital, but for those leaning toward cocktails, the “Konkan cooler” – a blend of tequila, cucumber soda and Guntur Sannam chilli – is the one you should go for. 

The bill 

Three courses, a cocktail and a glass of wine for two came to around £100.  

The verdict  

Trishna’s summer terrace offering adds a new dimension to an already celebrated restaurant. Whether you’re returning or discovering it for the first time, now is the perfect moment to go. 

15-17 Blandford Street, W1U 3DG; trishnalondon.com