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Food and drink
19 December 2025

Brummell recommends: Solaya

Words: 
Lucy Teasdale
Food and drink
19 December 2025

Brummell recommends: Solaya

Words: 
Lucy Teasdale

Michelin-starred chef Kenny Atkinson brings the flavours of the Mediterranean to Hoxton

 

After wowing critics at his two Michelin-starred restaurants in Newcastle, Kenny Atkinson brings his culinary flair and French Mediterranean, flavour-led dishes to Solaya at the top of art’otel, Hoxton – his first solo venture in London, and Shoreditch’s highest restaurant.

 

Michelin-starred chef Kenny Atkinson

The background

Opened in autumn 2025, Solaya offers flavour-led dishes that bring sunshine on a plate, whatever the weather. Atkinson made history when he gained his second Michelin star in Newcastle, becoming the only chef in the city to hold stars at two separate restaurants, House of Tides and Solstice. Solaya sits atop the 26-storey art’otel Hoxton, on Rivington Street in the heart of Shoreditch, and I was excited to experience this blend of sun-drenched cuisine and industrial city views.

The space

Entering the restaurant, you are immediately wowed by the panoramic views from the floor-to-ceiling windows; the restaurant and bar space wraps all the way around the top of the building, giving a full 360-degree aspect of London. Even on the grey day I was there, the vistas were spectacular and got more so as the winter sun started setting. The intimate bar area with its velvet banquettes gives way to the expansive restaurant and open kitchen, a lively insight into the workings of the busy brigade.

The food

Atkinson’s concept of a Mediterranean-inspired menu shines through, with a finely honed list of choices – from small plates to sharing dishes. The Sicilian red prawn crudo is spectacular, a beautifully blush-pink array of succulent prawns, while the focaccia is a standout. The combination of extra fermentation time and a dedicated bakery oven makes for the most crunchy, chewy, fluffy bread, which is baked freshly for each service.

Larger plates focus on beautiful produce; the lobster paccheri with stracciatella and kaffir lime is an elegant combination of lobster bisque with fresh, unctuous Neapolitan paccheri pasta and sweet lobes of lobster. A variety of fungi are championed in the umami-rich wild mushroom risotto with Périgord truffle, while the barbecue cod makes a star of the delicately burnished fish with a punchy, Basque garlic and chilli dressing.

Classic French desserts are elevated with a refined, delicate apple tarte fine and a crunchy, caramel-topped crème brûlée.

The drinks

Along with a limited but well-chosen selection of wines by the glass – including a deliciously crisp viognier that paired perfectly with the lightness of the ingredients – there are handcrafted, seasonal cocktails. The broader wine list features lesser-known Mediterranean regions such as Greece, Slovenia and Serbia, as well as favourites from France, Spain and Portugal; many of the bottles are displayed in the striking, backlit wine-wall.

The bill

Around £150 for two for a selection of small and large plates, sides, dessert and wine.

 

The “apple tarte fine” at Solaya

The verdict

Sitting at the intersection of the City and Shoreditch, Solaya has a broad audience to cater to, but Atkinson’s beautiful approach to flavour, technique and a deliberate simplicity on the plate will work across the board. As Atkinson says himself, ‘It’s versatile food that works for a long conversation, a date night or a second glass of wine, without asking you to decide which neighbourhood you’re in.’ We couldn’t have put it better ourselves.

 

Celebrate with sundowners at Solaya with a special £10 cocktail selection every Tuesday to Saturday, 4-8pm

25th Floor, art’otel London Hoxton, 1-3 Rivington Street, London EC2A 3DT; solayalondon.com

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