First opened in Soho in 1988, Mildreds was one of the first proponents of varied and delicious vegetarian menus in London. Now, it has five restaurants across the capital and, thanks to its adventurous take on world-inspired dishes, continues to stay one step ahead of the zeitgeist – including going fully vegan in 2021. If sustainability and giving back are values you appreciate, then Mildreds is the place for you, with a no-waste root-to-tip approach to produce and a series of giving-back initiatives that donate to charities, food banks and the homeless. To top it off, you’d be hard-pressed to find something you don’t enjoy on its menu.

I made a footline for the slightly larger Mildreds in Victoria, just a short walk from the station. It is a bright and welcoming space with the friendliest staff. Large colourful paintings adorn the walls, tongue-in-cheek sculptures keep watch as you tuck in (in my case, a happy Buddha enthusiastically stuck in front splits), and abundant flora remind you that you’re in a place that supports a plant-based lifestyle. It was a busy Thursday evening and the buzzy atmosphere was catching.

As an obsessive consumer of diet sodas, I was refreshed by how much I enjoyed my oolong and pineapple cold brew tea infusion, recommended to me by my vivacious waiter – so much so, I ordered two more throughout the meal (it was a hot day). It was the perfect precursor to the deliciously wholesome kimchi gyoza starter and teriyaki cauliflower cups (my dining partner and I dipped into both dishes with excited aplomb); the former I could eat daily.

For the mains, we were both sold by the kimchi bokkeumbap (gut-healthy kimchi fried rice, organic salt and pepper tofu, sweet gochujang chilli dressing, garlic aioli, nori), especially given its gut-health benefits. But in the interests of variety, I gave in and ordered the kiri hodi – a moreish Sri Lankan coconut curry with a cherry tomato chutney and paratha. It turned out to be a great move. I got to sample the kimchi bokkeumbap (note: not every dining partner will be down for sharing) and tuck into the tangy curry.

Feeling almost full, I opted to share a pud and, wrongly believing it was the lightest option, went for the white chocolate tiramisu. Oh, how I wished I had more room to finish this. I made a mental note to book to come for just desserts.