The background

Brigadiers is a new City venture from JKS Restaurants, the group established by the three Sethi siblings, which has developed a name for itself through revered London restaurants Gymkhana, Trishna and Hoppers. Like its sister restaurants, Brigadiers, which opened in June, is about really good Indian food but it has a very distinct style and atmosphere. The foodie focus at this restaurant is Indian barbecue made with grills, smokers and tandoors and serving it in a space that feels as suited to socialising as it is to formal dining.

Brigadiers in the City of London

The space

Suited to its City setting in the new Bloomberg Arcade, Brigadiers has a boys’ club feel to it and is based on the army mess rooms of India where the military eat and relax. That’s not to say that the restaurant is rowdy – it does have a rather unusual poolroom and offers card games too – but it’s all in the spirit of a salubrious clubbable space with separate and relaxed dining areas.

The restaurant is full of polished teak wood, statues, nets and patterned carpet and the classic feel makes Brigadiers feels a million miles away from the sleek new development outside. There is also a pleasant shady terrace in front of the restaurant with tables perfect for summer evenings if you can nab a spot.

The menu

The focus at Brigadiers is all about barbecue and there is an irresistible list of kebabs, steaks, ribs and chops to choose from – each of which is expertly and mouth-wateringly spiced and cooked. Brigadiers also has a rotisserie and wood-oven-cooked selection as well as fragrant biryanis made for two and come served like a pie with a pastry top.

Tandoori rib eye steak

In fact, many of the dishes are designed to share, which is great because narrowing down what to order is decidedly difficult. Highlights include the wood-roasted curry leaf masala turbot, bhuna ghee masala goat chops, and tandoori lamb chops. Although the focus is on meat, there is a good selection of vegetarian options including a roasted aubergine with dal, a deliciously spiced and grilled ‘vegetarian sizzler’, and delicious naans. Alongside the larger dishes, order plenty of the ‘Chhota Chatpata’ or small savoury snack plates including the Arbi Tokri Chaat, a spicy and fragrant puffed rice and pomegranate mix in a crisp potato basket, and the Hyderabadi Jheenga Poori – hot and spicy prawn curry eaten in a fried flatbread.

The drinks list

Brigadiers serves a selection of appetising whiskies from across the world, including Scottish, Irish, English, Japanese, American and Indian drams. The generous menu also includes a nifty flavour map, and the bar staff are experts at recommending a whisky to suit every taste. The poolroom is also home to a rather unique whisky vending machine, accessible with a pre-paid card and home to four vintage and limited edition spirits. Brigadiers also serves a long list of draft and bottled beers, including a Brigadiers lager, great cocktails (including two on draught) and a good selection of wine.

The bill

A meal for two with snacks, mains and drinks from £80.

Summary

Too many Indian restaurants in the UK are either cheap and cheerful or just too formal and stuffy. Brigadiers really feels like something new – an Indian restaurant that is fun, serves incredible food and drink and is as suitable for a meal with a date, family, colleagues or friends. A great addition to the City restaurant scene.

Brigadiers, 1-5 Bloomberg Arcade, London, EC4N 8AR, brigadierslondon.com