The background

Chef James Cochran, formerly of the Ledbury and Harwood Arms, has opened 1251 on Upper Street to celebrate two of his greatest passions – good food and music. Even the name of the restaurant comes from a song by The Strokes and there is a continued feeling of relaxed celebration at the new Islington restaurant. Cochran’s food is ambitious, creative and delicious. His former venture FIX in Hackney was an underappreciated diamond and his eponymous restaurant, James Cochran, in E3 was celebrated and artful. The legal battle that followed Cochran leaving his former backers and E3 restaurant behind means that he no longer has the rights to use his own name for a restaurant but there’s no way of taking his superlative cooking skills away from the chef and happily they are in full working order at 1251.

The space

The narrow restaurant in Islington is spread over a buzzing ground floor and mezzanine, with a relaxed and warm atmosphere. There’s a mixture of modern art, natural wood, patterned tiles and a muted colour scheme throughout with pops of pinks and reds.

The menu

1251 has a sharing plate concept divided into snacks and larger plates designed to share. The cooking is ambitious and exciting – at once comforting and challenging. An unguent and moreish haddock and leek toastie is followed by a sharp and salt mackerel with XO sauce, cucumber, hazelnuts and sea purslane. Cochran’s signature buttermilk jerk chicken with scotch bonnet jam is a must-order, as is the jerk-spiced hake with seaweed yoghurt, lettuce and watermelon. Cochran’s celebrated dish from the BBC’s Great British Menu – goat served with black-eyed pea dhal, roti, coconut rice, scotch bonnet jam – is also available and, although it is made for sharing, you’ll want to keep it all to yourself. Each dish is beautifully presented and provides a wonderful journey through different flavour sensations that all come together beautifully.

The same level of care goes into the desserts, something few restaurants can actually claim. In particular, the toasted oat custard tart is a dream of a pudding – rich, satisfying and surprisingly light. The all-organic wine list is reasonably priced and 1251 serves a cracking selection of cocktails too – don’t miss the 1251 negroni.

The bill

A meal for two, including wine and cocktails is around £90.

Summary

James Cochran is a leading light of British culinary talent whose cooking is going to take him far. Being able to experience it in a restaurant as relaxed and reasonably priced as 1251 feels like a privilege no one should miss out on.