As London’s first female sushi master, Miho Sato runs the otherwise all-male kitchen at The Aubrey, one of Knightsbridge’s most acclaimed restaurants. Located at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, the restaurant promises toamaze diners with Sato’s use of Japanese flavours and Asian ingredients. Brummell caught up with the sushi master to discuss her life in the culinary arts.

In 2021, you became head chef at The Aubrey leading an all-male kitchen. How have you enjoyed the role so far?

I believe that dishes created by men and women are equally delicious, regardless of gender. I was hired for my skills. Historically, restaurant kitchens have been male-dominated, in part because female chefs have had to make significant sacrifices to achieve the same level of skill as their male counterparts. This is a choice that I was happy to make.

At The Aubrey, we are a team of 12 with very different skills and backgrounds. Our diversity allows us to learn from each other and constantly improve our craft. We are all passionate about hospitality and committed to providing our guests with an unforgettable dining experience.

I am happy to say that diversity in the restaurant industry has made significant progress since I was a young chef in Japan. This is especially true in London, where there is a growing appreciation for the talents of female chefs.

You are London’s first female sushi master. But before a glittering career in Japanese cuisine, you trained as a dentist. What prompted the change of career path? 

I grew up in a small boutique hotel in northern Japan, an area famous for its water, sake and rice. Food, nature and seasonal ingredients were always around me, so it’s no surprise that I became a chef.

Sushi is like dentistry in that it requires precision and attention to detail. There are so many processes involved in making just one small nigiri! Each nigiri reflects my personality, as it is created with the ingredients and techniques that I love.

I don’t think my career is glamorous, but I hope my parents are proud of my journey. 

Achieving the title of “sushi master” is no mean feat. What have you learned on your journey to securing this title?

True training comes from experience. In Japanese cooking, seasonality of ingredients, impeccable presentation and taste are valued above all else. I have been learning for many years, and I have developed my skills by working with a wide variety of ingredients and cooking methods. I have also absorbed a great deal of knowledge from the countless days and nights I have spent in the kitchen with masters of the craft.

It is important to learn from your mistakes and take responsibility for your work. If you are proud of your work, you will stay in love with it. Believe in yourself and know that you will not be able to do everything perfectly tomorrow, but you will be able to do it one day.

What is the best piece of advice you have ever received in your career and why?

Time is your greatest gift. Train hard. Learn always. My training will continue until I retire.

Can you describe what diners would expect from Miho Sato at The Aubrey?

My dishes are simple. Unified. Pure. Aesthetically Japanese. Less is more, the ingredients should speak for themselves, through the way they are put together within a dish and presented. I don’t like ingredients to be lost in sauces, I want each to be celebrated and recognised. That doesn’t mean I can’t have fun with presentation – but the fun must be rooted in a celebration of the ingredients and preparation skills.

At the moment I’m most proud of my snow crab roll with passion fruit. The sweet citrus of the passion fruit isn’t usually used in classic Japanese cuisine, but it’s something unique and creative.

What do you wish Londoners knew more about Japanese cuisine?

Edomae sushi. Edomae sushi uses a short-grain Japanese rice – koshihikari – which has a very high starch content. Edomae sushi rice is washed multiple times before cooking, resulting in a cleaner, more flavourful rice that accentuates the flavours of the fish quality and all of the ingredients: soy, wasabi and the rice itself. 

Who is your role model and how have they influenced you in your work?

I don’t have one single role model – I have had many teachers, masters and role models. I admire anyone with the determination to master anything. 

What single ingredient can you not live without and why?

Japanese cooking can’t exist without rice or miso. But I especially like to make and eat the fermented food, koji. These are very traditional Japanese foods: koji miso, koji shoyu etc but they are not particularly fashionable, so I find ways to incorporate elements into dishes in a way that isn’t overbearing. 

What are your biggest passions outside of food and drink?

Food and drink are my passion, and I am also very passionate about sustainability. It is no coincidence that my principles are very similar to those of the Mandarin Oriental and Maximal Concepts. For example, we do not serve endangered species of fish and we work with seasonal ingredients. This means that I have to be more creative when designing new dishes, but it is also a privilege to work with these respected companies.

I always try to think about the impact on the global environment while improving myself. I care deeply about sustainable produce, and I do not want to stand by idly while the world’s resources decline. I want to share my experience and the knowledge I have developed to become a respected chef, while also showing the team how to respect the environment.

What is your favourite restaurant in the world and why?

Believe it or not, I don’t have one. I rarely go back to the same restaurant twice. I love the adventure of going to new restaurants to taste, watch and learn.

mandarinoriental/the-aubrey