The executive head of bakery and pastry at Birley Bakery tells us how he brought the spirit of French boulangerie to Chelsea
For Vincent Zanardi, cooking has always been a family affair. Growing up not far from Paris, the pastry chef discovered his love of baking in his grandmother’s kitchen. He went on to hone his craft in Michelin-starred restaurants across Paris and London, where he moved in 2006 to work with the legendary “Chef of the Century”, Joël Robuchon.
Since then, he has made the UK his home, following a meeting with private members’ club owner Robin Birley, for whom Zanardi has overseen the restaurants at 5 Hertford Street and Oswald’s. He went on to launch Birley Bakery and a chocolate shop just a short stroll from King’s Road. Here, he reveals the inspiration behind some of his most celebrated pastries.
How did your passion for baking begin?
It might sound clichéd for a chef, but I’ve been cooking and baking since I was a child. In my family, I was surrounded by people who loved food – my mum, my grandparents and several friends of my parents who were chefs. I naturally followed them into the kitchen. It never felt like something I chose; it was simply part of my everyday life.
You’ve mentioned your grandmother was an excellent home cook. Are there any particular dishes or memories that have stayed with you?
She could make dozens of dishes with potatoes, always different, always delicious. My favourite was a very simple potato salad, but the magic was in the details: choosing the right potatoes, cooking them to the exact time, peeling them while still warm, and mixing them immediately with her homemade vinaigrette. Every single step mattered. It’s a beautiful reminder that simplicity, when done perfectly, is incredibly powerful.
You moved to London in 2006 to work with the legendary Joël Robuchon. How did that experience influence your approach to pâtisserie?
Working with Chef Robuchon changed my approach to food entirely, not just pâtisserie. I learned that the quality of ingredients is the foundation of every dish. I learned to trust the classics, even the simplest ones, and to understand that simplicity is often the hardest thing to achieve. That idea of “elegance through simplicity” has stayed with me ever since.
At Birley Bakery, you set out to recreate the atmosphere of a traditional French neighbourhood boulangerie‑pâtisserie. How did you bring that vision to life?
By following my instincts, drawing on childhood memories and, above all, leaning into the vision and guidance of Robin Birley. That combination brought the spirit of a true French boulangerie to life.
Where does your love for chocolate come from? What excites you most about working with cacao?
Probably from childhood, like many of us. My first memory is a fresh baguette, generously buttered, with pieces of milk chocolate inside – what we call le quatre‑heures, our afternoon treat.
Today, what fascinates me is the diversity of origins and terroirs. Chocolate is a bit like wine: so many varieties to explore, so many flavours to discuss, so many opinions to share.
The cravat pastry and the raspberry tarte Tropézienne are among your most celebrated creations. Could you tell us more about the inspiration and process behind them?
The cravat comes from a flat mini‑baguette baked with savoury ingredients like cheese and bacon. There is a small bakery in my in‑laws’ town in Brittany that makes something similar. I wanted to refine that idea while keeping its original purpose: something to enjoy at apéritif time with friends and a good bottle of wine.
The raspberry Tropézienne mixes classic flavours that I love, orange blossom and raspberries and I often add a touch of violet to the raspberry coulis because it brings out the brightness of the fruit beautifully.
What are your memories of Easter? And what can guests expect to enjoy at Birley Bakery during the Easter season?
My favourite Easter memories are in my grandpa’s garden, hunting for chocolate with him. There is something unique about the relationship with grandparents; he became like a child himself during that time of year, hiding chocolates in the grass and behind the trees, then sending my brother and me off to find them. It was a real game for all of us.
At Birley Bakery, guests can expect plenty of chocolate, of course, along with beautiful colomba cake and hot cross buns.
Your collaboration with Robin Birley began while overseeing the five restaurants within his private members’ clubs. How does your current role differ, and what challenges come with continually surprising such a discerning clientele?
I now focus entirely on the bakeries, and honestly, they take most of my time. Challenges are what keep us alive, what would we do without them? For me, the most difficult but also the most rewarding challenge is saying “yes” as often as possible. Finding a way to meet each request is incredibly satisfying.
From Tahitian vanilla to Piedmontese hazelnuts, you’ve emphasised the importance of sourcing. How much time and care goes into finding the right suppliers?
It’s an ongoing, natural process for all of us chefs. We travel, we taste and we discover new products constantly. The challenge is bringing these discoveries home and incorporating them into our work. It’s not something we schedule, it simply becomes instinct.
Birley Bakery: 28-30 Cale Street, Chelsea Green, London SW3 3QU
Birley Chocolate Shop: 24 Cale Street, London SW3 3QU
birleybakery.com
