Leading one of Cape Town’s newest fine dining destinations, head chef Kieran Whyte tells us what to expect from Curate at Ellerman House.
We met Chef Kieran Whyte a few moments before his shift began, on the breezy terrace of Ellerman House overlooking the ocean – and one thing was immediately clear: he has a deep passion for his home country and its multicultural cuisine. The menu he has crafted at Curate is a love letter to South African food, elevating familiar delicacies with a contemporary twist that artfully weaves together childhood memories, hyperlocal ingredients and, of course, exceptional wine.
Head chef Kieran Whyte
Can you tell us about the concept behind Curate at Ellerman House?
We wanted to create a space where we could push local South African ideas through food, wine, art and hospitality without boundaries while staying true to the Ellerman House ethos.
Curate champions a hyperlocal menu, with very few ingredients imported from abroad. What informed this decision, and how does it shape your cooking?
We have so much to offer locally when it comes to ingredients. It sets us apart, because you won’t find items on our menu that everyone else is using. It allows us to cook more authentically and present our guests with dishes they wouldn’t otherwise experience. It’s easy for visitors to Cape Town to opt for Italian, Japanese or French cuisine — here, we give them a local flavour in a fine dining setting.
Each dish is said to evoke a memory rooted in South African culture. What are some of the dishes you grew up with, and how have you reinterpreted them on the menu?
One of our canapés is called ‘Mom Remembered Melrose’, it harks back to an advert for a cheese spread that you’d put on bread in your lunchbox. We recreated an elevated version using a local cheese and an enriched bread finished with biltong dust to lift the flavour profile. Our bread course draws on two local classics and really takes you back. Amagwinya – or vetkoek, a traditional fried bread – is paired with smoked snoek and apricot. The snoek, usually prepared on the braai, becomes the perfect spread for the amagwinya.
The wine cellar takes centre stage at Curate. How closely are you involved in the wine pairings, and do you have any personal favourites from the list?
We always taste the dishes alongside wines to find the perfect pairing. Joe, our sommelier, and I will discuss ideas beforehand and set up a selection to work through together. We’re particularly fond of the Karoo Hoogland MCC, a truly unique wine. I think we took their entire stock! We also have our own red blend, The Ellerman, which is always exceptional and features on the menu permanently.
Is there one ingredient you simply couldn’t cook without?
There are so many to choose from, but I find myself starting most things with garlic and onions. So simple, yet the foundation of so many great dishes – whether used together or on their own. They appear on virtually every plate at Curate, desserts aside.
Who has been the biggest influence on your career, and in what ways have they shaped your approach in the kitchen?
Probably Chef Peter Templehoff. I had my first real job with him at The Greenhouse around 2007 and learnt a great deal during that time. That said, I’ve met many influential people along the way – there’s a lot of guidance and collaboration at Ellerman House.
What sets Cape Town apart from other cities when it comes to its food culture?
I think the wine regions in and around the city make it a natural food destination. Many chefs who grew up here have stayed, and the scene has grown stronger with each generation. We also have a wonderful mix of flavours and cultures to draw from. And we’re spoiled for location. The atmosphere comes naturally, which means we can focus our energy on delivering an even better food offering.
And finally, what do you like to cook at home?
The simpler the better, honestly. Lasagne and carbonara are always my go-tos.
Curate at Ellerman House, 180 Kloof Rd, Bantry Bay, Cape Town, 8005, South Africa; ellerman.co.za
Photography by Felix Studios
