Bollinger releases its latest single-grape champagne, PN TX20, but the technical code of a name hides a more emotional connection
One reason champagne still holds the sparkling wine crown (in terms of prestige, rather than volume – that plastic tiara is held by the hen-do’s favourite, prosecco) is the quality and individuality of its three grape varietals. Usually, the trio is blended to provide balance, but champagne winemakers also like to set themselves the challenge of creating something complex out of one alone.
Chardonnay is the most frequent solo artist in blanc de blancs and, occasionally, a brave soul will make an exclusively pinot meunier wine. And then there’s pinot noir. While blanc de noirs is often a collaboration between the two black grapes, the PN series from Bollinger, whose regular cuvées are often pinot noir-dominated, represents what the ingenious code suggests. The name of the latest release, Bollinger PN TX20 (£99), carries other coded information, which explains the intentions of the chef de cave, Denis Bunner.
TX stands for the main cru, Tauxières, which is backed up with other Montagne de Reims crus, Aÿ and Avenay. This is not a vintage champagne, but the number 20 refers to the year of the base wine (48 per cent 2020, with reserve wines going back to 2008). Bunner says, ‘Bollinger PN is an exploration of pinot noir designed to demonstrate the influence different crus and vintages have on a single grape variety. By using each edition to showcase individual crus and years, we are working to highlight terroir’s impact and the direct link between vine and wine.’
The PN project is one that means a lot to Bunner, as it was something he was working on with his predecessor Gilles Descôtes, before his illness and death at just 57, two years ago: ‘When I joined Bollinger in 2013, when I met first Gilles, he told me we have to develop the pinot noir in-house and to be the king of pinot noir. I think we have fulfilled his plan.’
The year 2020 saw a few challenges, if I recall correctly. In the Champagne region, there were unexpected factors specific to viticulture. Unseasonably warm conditions in the first part of the year caused rapid vine growth and early flowering. Then a hot, dry summer with heatwaves scalding exposed bunches. As a result, harvest began on a relatively early 17 August but had to be paused because of uneven grape ripening in September. By putting that gap between harvest periods, they managed to achieve the perfect balance of sugar and acidity.
The climatic conditions were the reason for selecting Tauxières as the lead cru, explains Bunner: ‘It’s the latest village to be harvested. That’s why you have this very high freshness and precision – grapefruit notes, fleshy fruit – but not as powerful as Aÿ. In a very hot and dry year like 2020, Tauxières does very well. We need those late-harvest terroirs in the context of climate change.’
While some blancs de noirs wear their red fruit notes to excess, PN TX20 has subtle accessories of hedgerow berry gems. The nose is very fresh and citrusy with white stone fruits beneath and some minerality, too. On the palate, it has the richness of stewed fruit with bright pops of sharp redcurrant. Although delicious on its own, it pairs magnificently with lobster or sushi.
