From Giorgio Armani’s slouchy blazers to Pal Zileri’s ultra-light tailoring and Church’s revival of the Shanghai shoe, here are our takeaways from Milan fashion week
Giorgio Armani closed this season’s men’s shows in Milan with a collection reflecting on 50 years of the brand’s iconic silhouettes. For the occasion, the typically austere Armani/Teatro – designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando – was softened with a Mediterranean touch: live ferns and towering obsidian stones evoked the raw, untouched beauty of Pantelleria, the Sicilian island where Mr Armani spends his summers.
Slouchy, tapered trousers in sun-bleached desert tones were effortlessly paired with fluid silk shirts and the house’s signature unstructured blazers, this time reimagined with a fresh, cropped cut. Deep navy shawl-collared jackets followed weightless leather trenches and sandy-hued blousons, while the chromatic palette was later enriched by shades of cyclamen and lavender before transitioning into sleek all-black eveningwear.
Taking the final bow was Leo Dell’Orco, head of the men’s style office, as Mr Armani recovered at home from a brief illness.
A similar longing for escapism emerged at Pal Zileri, whose presentation drew inspiration from the Middle Eastern folklore that’s beautifully captured in The Thousand and One Nights. ‘The book served as an important source of inspiration,’ CEO Leo Scordo told us. ‘With its evocative atmosphere, the desert, the spices and the neutral tones contrasted by the sharpness of black and the richness of vibrant colours.’
Known for its sharp tailoring, the Italian brand offered a laid-back take on formalwear, experimenting with ultra-light materials and Saharan-inspired shades. ‘Our fabric research focused primarily on natural fibres such as bamboo, which yields a cellulose fibre that produces a versatile, fresh and practical fabric similar to viscose,’ Scordo added.
Elsewhere, Church’s took over the Piccolo Teatro Studio Melato – an experimental venue known for its innovative productions and distinctive circular layout. Centre stage was given to the Shanghai monk strap shoe, first introduced in 1929 and now reimagined with a sleek laser-cut finish. The original design – donated to the brand by an anonymous customer from Shanghai – was displayed at the theatre, looking strikingly modern despite being nearly a century old.
