The writer Henry Jeffreys recently posed a thought-provoking question: ‘Are there any two words in the English language more soul-dampening than “Dry January”?’ To hear the phrase is to feel the sparkle of Christmas fizzle out, replaced by the hectoring tone of “New Year, New You” headlines, and wheatgrass and spinach smoothies served with a side of moral superciliousness.

There is, of course, a logic to the impulse to fast after festive excess. Religions have long sanctioned abstinence as a means of spiritual cleansing. But operators who fail to cater to the abstinent crowd may be leaving money on the table. Laura Willoughby MBE, co-founder of Club Soda, a “mindful drinking” consultancy and merchant, is quick to underline the stakes. ‘According to KAM Insights, food-led venues lose £800m a year by not upgrading customers from tap water to something they’ll pay for,’ she notes. The message is clear: the drinks menu must evolve. Fizzy pop is no longer the default for non-drinkers – it’s too sugary, too juvenile and too unsuited to fine food.

Becky Paskin, whisky writer and advocate for diversity in drinks, is even lobbying to eradicate the term “mocktail”. ‘They’re drinks in their own right,’ she argues. ‘Nothing mock about them.’ At the Michelin-starred Aulis, Soho, the tasting menu offers an enlightening glimpse of what a thoughtfully constructed non-alcoholic pairing can be. Drinks maestro, Charles Carron Brown matches Simon Rogan’s dishes with creations like “Red Wine, Not Red Wine” – a beguiling brew of Japanese black tea, beetroot juice, unfermented grape juice, cacao nibs, blackberries and wood oil – and “Apple & Whey”, which melds Pink Lady apple juice, yoghurt, and Cartmel pine smoke into a compelling alternative to wine. These are not abstinence drinks; they are experiences.

For those seeking bottles to stock at home, Lyre’s American Malt is a standout. It’s ideal for warming cocktails such as a honeyed hot toddy, or a maple-infused coffee creation (£24.45, spiritskiosk.com). On the vinous side, Non 3 Toasted Cinnamon and Yuzu, produced on exotic-sounding Boon Wurrung and Wurundjeri land in Melbourne, offers a tart, spiced medley which is both complex and enjoyable (£19.99, wanderlustwine.co.uk). It’s sobriety with flair, the self-satisfied smirk of someone who knows they’ll rise fresh as a daisy tomorrow morning.

Then there’s Sentia, a functional “spirit” crafted by the controversial neuropsychopharmacologist Professor David Nutt, which promises relaxation without the cognitive fallout of alcohol. Using botanicals like ashwagandha and ginseng, it stimulates the brain’s GABA system, encouraging calm and sociability without a hangover, though take note, the unwinding effect can be stronger for some. ‘We recommend waiting 45 minutes after drinking before driving until the effects wear off,’ cautions Nutt. ‘Always use your best judgement.’ Our preference is for the citrus rich Gold (£32, sentiaspirits.com). And, of course, Guinness 0.0 has taken the non-alcoholic beer market by storm, emerging as its leader, with its creamy texture and faithful reproduction of the original now making it a staple in pubs and supermarkets alike.

Dry January isn’t for everyone. For some, the hard line of abstinence works a treat, offering clarity and a recalibration of habits. For others, it feels punitive, a joyless march through an already dreary month. Might a “Damp January” be a more palatable proposition? Armed with a Coravin device in hand, a wine lover can steal a sip from an interesting bottle rather than uncork and overcommit, for instance. Is it possible to moderate without martyrdom?

Ultimately, the choice to abstain, partake or dabble somewhere in between is a deeply personal one. But the world of mindful drinking is no longer about deprivation – it’s about choice, creativity and the quiet pleasure of a clear head come morning time.