The background  

Afternoon tea holds a unique and curious place in modern dining culture. The capital’s famous names have a set – and winning – formula of dainty cucumber sandwiches, dress-up-worthy surroundings and the finest formal service. But as sartorial codes have loosened, so has our approach to this most quintessentially British of culinary experiences. With it has come the proliferation of fusion and themed teas that have to toe a careful line between the adventurous and the gimmicky, a delicate balance that is tricky to fully master.   

At The Prince Akatoki, its Japanese-inspired take comes with a serious pedigree. This boutique five-star hotel, in the heart of Marylebone, brings elevated East Asian hospitality to the capital. From the signature scent as soon as you step in the door, to its minimalist décor, it offers the very best in discreet and refined luxury.  

The space 

While many afternoon teas in London make use of hotels’ grand dining halls, The Prince Akatoki has gone the completely opposite route – to great effect. Diners are welcomed and led through to the cosy Malt Lounge & Bar that features just a handful of tables, its sumptuous wood panelling adding to the intimate atmosphere. In lieu of the traditional piano player, you are instead greeted by the delicate tunes of musician Keiko Kitamura, a specialist in koto, a Japanese string instrument.   

The food   

While the menu follows the standard afternoon tea format, its flavours and creativity are anything but. The savouries are where The Prince Akatoki really shines; here, Japanese-style sandwiches (sandos) are generously sized and filled with chicken katsu and melt-in-the-mouth beef tataki. Fish connoisseurs will be delighted in the array of choices beyond the played-out smoked salmon to be found here, from brioche loaded with delicate slices of seared tuna to a selection of nigiri, including a particularly delicious morsel topped with buttery otoro, the fattiest part of tuna.  

The sweet elements lean on fresh and zingy flavours and lighter textures, bringing a subtle Japanese influence to otherwise traditional French patisserie. A silky-smooth crème brûlée has undertones of, but is not overpowered by, citrussy yuzu, while matcha is married with pistachio in a visually impressive layer cake. The sesame and caramelised chocolate tart offers a deep richness, offset elsewhere by the fluffy pavlova topped with passionfruit curd. Unusually, the scones were brought out last, with other diners choosing to have these packaged up to take away – perhaps a wise option, especially if you’ve taken up on the offer of extra sandwiches earlier.  

A testament to the curated nature of the experience, the tea menu is short and considered, with just six options of carefully sourced green teas and matcha (no English Breakfast tea to be found here). Meanwhile champagne is eschewed in favour of an optional sake flight, including a particularly refreshing sparkling number. 

The bill 

 The Prince Akatoki Koto Afternoon Tea costs £70 per person, including a selection of teas, or £130 with the addition of the sake pairing. 

The verdict 

The Prince Akatoki offers one of the most original afternoon teas in the capital, served in tranquil and relaxing surroundings that transport you to Japan.  

The Koto Afternoon Tea takes place on Sundays only; the Afternoon Tea menu is available Friday-Sunday. To book, visit The Prince Akatoki website.