The earliest prototype of the Radiomir, the signature model of Florentine watchmaker Panerai, dates back to 1935. It wasn’t until two years later, however, that the model was brought into service with a line produced exclusively for the Royal Italian Navy. Fast forward to 1998, and Officine Panerai launches the modern Radiomir into the commercial watch market with the Radiomir 210. Limited to just 60 pieces, it was an instant hit with collectors, hallmarked by its cushion-shaped platinum case, sandwich dial and exceptional water-resistant properties.

Such a legacy of innovation remains strong to this day as the Radiomir family grows ever larger. Indeed, the latest addition to the line is the most alluring yet: the Radiomir California PAM01349 revealed at this year’s Watches and Wonders.

For the first time in Panerai’s history, the Radiomir California – historically always produced in 47mm – arrives in a 45mm size. The model also sports a brand-new hand-finishing, Brunito eSteel, which lends a vintage appeal with its unique weathered look created via Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD).

Where this model truly shines is its hollowed dial. Housed in an emblematic rounded square case, the dial is awash with a textured green hue, paired with slim wire lugs and hands tipped in metallic blue.

The old-school charm of the California dial is further accentuated by alternating Roman and Arabic numerals, bar indexes, and a minute track inspired by Ref 3646 from the archives of the maison.

The strap also features a detail that is exclusive to this timepiece: a hot printed inscription of “G. Panerai e Figlio”, the same phrase found on the signage of the original Panerai workshop in Florence.

Beating within the case is the hand-wound P.5000 calibre. An in-house movement crafted in 2013, the calibre grants this latest model an eight-day power reserve.

For a grail-worthy watch that’s full of surprises, make sure the PAM01349 is on your radar.

£10,600; panerai.com