Background

This modern neighbourhood restaurant opened in summer 2019 at the fictional home of everyone’s favourite Baker Street detective. Head chef Stefano Motta (Margot, Bricole) is at the helm, alongside in-house mixologist Peppe Corallo, who was responsible for show-stopping cocktails at Mr Foggs, Coya London, Aqua and Nobu. Together, they have created a menu of delicious dishes inspired by international flavours with a seasonal twist, accompanied by a truly unique selection of quirky cocktails, in relaxed and luxurious surroundings.

The space

Designed by award-winning design studio Digital Space, Kitchen at Holmes has a spacious modern drawing room, with a neutral colour palette and walls adorned with photography and images that nod to the famous detective. A grand piano adds an air of decadence while the open kitchen provides a homely feel. The lighting is warm, the seating comfortable and the tables are large enough to accommodate all the small plates you’ll want to order from the starter section of the menu. On paper, all the references to Sherlock Holmes may seem a little gimmicky (especially when the waiter brings us over a couple of houndstooth deerstalker hats to don when drinking our themed cocktails) but this is tempered by the exquisite service and the delectably moreish food.

The food

The aforementioned small plates to start are divided into raw, fritti, and aged and smoked. There are plenty of dishes intriguing enough for us to order – and they definitely delivered. We feasted on the yellow fin tuna tartare (always a winner), aubergine tempura, crottin cheese with pistachio and olives and chipirones with a delicious lime mayo. Every bite really brought with it an abundance of flavour. The mains are just as spectacular as the starters – the diners on the next table had a whole Mediterranean sea bream delivered to their table and the star dish is Motta’s 1kg English Longhorn côte de boeuf (for two), but as Brummell was dining with a pescatarian we opted for the Welsh Herdwick lamb escalopes and the king crab and avocado salad, both equally delicious. Full to the brim, we eschewed the tasty-sounding yuzu and pistachio candied kumquats and opted instead for a dark chocolate sorbet, which was rich yet refreshing.

The drinks

The bar here is a destination in itself and Corallo’s menu is both tempting and quirky. On arrival in the restaurant, we were ceremoniously presented with a glass serving dome concealing ominous swirls of smoke. As the lid was lifted, the smoke cleared to reveal a glass pipe through which we drank a Sherlock’s Pipe cocktail – a pleasing blend of Talisker, Campari, Johnnie Walker Black, smoked vermouth and Pimento Dram. The KT Time cocktail, served in a crystal martini glass and poured from a glass teapot, contains a palatable combination of gin, elderflower liqueur, hibiscus syrup, plum bitters, cranberry juice and lime juice.

The bill

A three-course meal for two from the à la carte menu with cocktails, from £160.

In summary

Beautiful surroundings, laidback, professional staff, delicious food and quirky cocktails – a fun and elevated dining experience.

Kitchen at Holmes, 108 Baker Street, London W1U 6LJ; kitchenatholmes.co.uk