WORDS
Eleanor Pryor
Zenith’s mastery of movements is well known. When it comes to excelling in observatory chronometer competitions, the ultimate test of precision, the company has amassed more awards than any other watchmaker, claiming more than 2,330 such accolades. And while its famous El Primero often takes the spotlight, with its latest release it places a rightful emphasis on another of its creations, the Calibre 135-O.
This technical marvel, the most highly awarded observatory chronometer ever made, has an intriguing background. The Calibre 135 was developed from 1945 by Ephrem Jobin and produced from 1949 and 1962 in two separate versions, one for commercial sale and the other solely for taking part in these competitions. The latter, marked ‘O’, were never cased and presented as watches – until now.
A new series of 10 pieces, sold exclusively by Phillips, features specially selected historical movements from between 1950 and 1954, presented in a new watch design that is unmistakably modern while paying tribute to this deep heritage. This has been achieved with the help of Phillips’ experts, Aurel Bacs and Alexandre Ghotbi, while also enlisting renowned independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen to painstakingly restore and hand-decorate the calibres.
The look of the watch itself recalls some of the most elegant timepieces of the 1950s. The black dial is subtly decorated with guilloché engraving in a fish-scale motif, with vintage-style indices and slim, tapered hands. In a nod to its origins, the oversized seconds counter at 6 o’clock is inscribed with the serial number of the movement, while the dial is signed ‘Neuchatel’, the home of Zenith, as well as that of Kari Voutilainen and the historical observatory where the Calibre 135-O was presented for competition.