Scale up: Bulgari Serpenti

The watchmaker’s elegant serpent-themed collection is celebrated at a special pop-up at Watches of Switzerland in Broadgate

Watches & Jewellery 20 Aug 2021

The snake is one of the most mysterious mythological symbols, with a unique ability to evoke feelings of power and seduction while simultaneously striking fear into hearts. And over the centuries it has captured the imagination of many ancient civilizations, representing fertility, regeneration and immortality. In Greek mythology this connection with rebirth was expressed through the image of the creature biting its tail, forming a never-ending circle representing the cyclical nature of life.

Its graceful form has long been a key motif in the world of jewellery, heavily adopted by ancient Egypt to denote status and royalty. More recently, Bulgari has continued this long-held tradition with its iconic Serpenti, which when first introduced in the 1940s brought an ingenious new spin to the snake motif that has evolved and morphed throughout the decades. The watchmaker is paying tribute to this legendary design with a special pop-up at the Watches of Switzerland boutique in Broadgate until 30 November, where visitors can not only experience its Serpenti timepieces first hand, but can discover its other important watch families, including the Octo.

For an item that has come to represent the pinnacle of glamour and sophistication, the Serpenti has surprisingly humble beginnings. Its unique form, which sees a bracelet elegantly slink its way around the wrist, has its origins in the Tubogas jewellery technique. Taking its name from the gas pipes it resembles, it comprises interlocking links that are both strong yet beautifully supple. The early models catered to the elegant sobriety of the post-war era, with their distinctly feminine, yet functional, appeal.

Like a snake sheds its skin, in the years that followed the Serpenti has constantly reinvented itself, with each iteration introducing a new facet to one of Bulgari’s most recognisable collections. The 1950s saw it take on a more lifelike look, the silhouette of the case reworked to more accurately represent a snake’s head, the dial cleverly concealed with a hinged cover. The bracelet, too, became both more realistic and colourful, featuring scale-shaped links adorned in beautiful precious gemstones or encrusted with stunning diamonds. Cementing its status as one of the most coveted accessories was its appearance on the set of Cleopatra in 1962, worn by the glamorous Elizabeth Taylor.

The original Tubogas style saw a revival in the 1970s and 1980s, and its clean and striking form remains a favourite today. The models on show at the pop-up display demonstrate just how versatile this collection is, from minimalist steel designs to contemporary two-tone models. Similarly, the impact can be dialled up with the bracelet choice, from a pared-back single loop to bold multi-loop versions that dramatically wind their way up the arm.

Also on display is a wide selection from the Serpenti Spiga line. Bringing a modern new take on this classic timepiece, its unique bracelet features a shape inspired by the stalk of wheat, a symbol of fertility and prosperity. First introduced in 2014, it has quickly become a core part of the Serpenti family, and the perfect expression of how Bulgari continues to breathe new life into one of horology’s most important watches, continuing the snake’s path of renewal and regeneration.

The Bulgari pop-up runs until 30 November at Watches of Switzerland Broadgate, Liverpool Street Octagon Mall, London EC2M 2AU; bulgari.com