Diving belle: Longines Legend Diver

Longines continues to make waves in the deep-sea domain with its most handsome throng of Legend Divers to date

Watches & Jewellery 3 Mar 2022

Ever since furnishing Charles Lindbergh with his fabled Weems watch for his transatlantic heroics, Longines has held a gold standard in the cockpit – particularly fitting for a Swiss maison with a winged hourglass as its logo. And today, although it’s perhaps better known for its association with the Sport of Kings, it has an equally noble pedigree in the diving arena, too.

A quick wrist-check in any civic setting will reveal a growing appetite for dive watches and while they seldom go deeper than the local lido, wearing one exhibits a certain en vogue athleticism, even if you haven’t actually earned your sporting stripes. And Longines – as one of horology’s dedicated followers of fashion – is acutely aware of this appeal.

The Saint-Imier firm first dipped its toes in the aquatic realm back in the 1930s, when it patented waterproof chronograph pushers, before releasing a Super-Compressor model in 1959, which featured an internal rotating bezel used by divers to clock their sub-surface time. It was this archival, mid-century belle that provided the template for its modern-day successor, the Legend Diver, which made a splash on surfacing in 2007.

Since then, the growing Legend Diver range has proved consistently popular among horophiles and novices alike – its signature Longines dressiness making it a refined alternative to the glut of brawny dive watches that can weigh heavy on the wrist. Last year saw the release of a series of vibrant, gradient-dial models and now the brand is bolstering the offering further, with a fresh quintet of fumé dial options.

The larger size models – at a crowd-pleasing 42mm – have enough wrist presence without feeling obtrusive due to a trim case profile and come with either a sand-beige or ash-grey dial. Alongside this well-proportioned pair are three dialled-down 36mm models with burgundy, royal blue and sand-beige dials, which will appeal to those with a leaner wrist.

All five models incorporate an internal rotating bezel operated by a screw-down crown and have colour-matched fabric or leather straps, while a domed box-sapphire crystal – redolent of mid-century watch design – protect those handsome ombré dials. Super-LumiNova® has been applied to the Arabic numerals and batons, which will prove useful when you’re clocking the hour in the murky light of a bar – or if, indeed, you actually do find yourself 50 fathoms deep.

Beneath surface level, the bulletproof self-winding mechanical movements incorporate a balance spring crafted from silicon, a material impervious to magnetic forces – the ultimate foe of accuracy in mechanical movements. All this is delivered with a five-year warranty and, at £1,960, you won’t need to deep dive your savings to strap one on your wrist.

Our pick of the bunch? The Nato-strap ash-grey number, which would look equally good beneath the cuff of a suit, or worn at the pool for a Sunday lap session. In short, this is one amphibious beauty that looks the part both in and out of the water.

Longines Legend Diver, £1,960; longines.com