A show of hands: David M Robinson

Four DMR experts describe their pick of this year’s innovative and exciting Rolex launches

Watches & Jewellery 30 May 2022

At luxury watch and jewellery retailer David M Robinson (DMR)’s Canary Wharf showroom, senior staff are regarded as ambassadors for Rolex and constantly keep up with the latest developments so they can share with clients. Rolex watches are designed to last lifetimes, and their long-term vision fits neatly with DMR’s. The retailer works towards building trust with clients to start life-long relationships to see them return when they have special occasions or moments to celebrate, or for important and necessary after-sales service and advice. Or just for a chat. Here, four DMR experts describe their pick of this year’s innovative and exciting Rolex launches. davidmrobinson.co.uk

Oyster Perpetual Air-King

 ‘The Air-King has had a bit of a makeover, with a redesigned case, reimagined proportions, and a refreshed display, and remains as versatile as ever.’ Bale Sekulceska, showroom manager

The Air-King pays tribute to the pioneers of flight, particularly those from the 1930s, an era of spectacular progress in airplane performance and record-breaking long distance flights. Rolex timers would often be found in cockpits, either on the wrists of pilots or as an on-board chronometer. Launched in 1958, the Air-King became the monarch of aviation watches. The new model has a completely redesigned 40mm case and, as with many Professional models, now has a crown guard and straight sides. The display has been balanced with the addition of a “0” before the 5 on the minute scale. Other modernisations include optimisation of the Chromalight display, guaranteeing maximum legibility, and a new luminescent material, exclusive to Rolex, for the markers and numerals. Powered by calibre 3230, the power reserve is 70 hours. It is completed by an Oyster bracelet, now for the first time featuring the Rolex-patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp, preventing accidental opening. This new interpretation has been carefully reconfigured for modern times to reign for many more years to come. The sky’s the limit.

£5,900

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40

‘I love the 2022 platinum Day-Date 40 with ice blue dial; the distinctive face of a Rolex watch combined with the fluted bezel is showstopping.’ Cerian Tarbuck, head of jewellery

Exclusively made only in precious metals – 18ct yellow and white gold, Everose or platinum – the Day-Date has always defined prestige and innovation. Created in 1956, it was the first calendar watch to indicate the day of the week, spelt out in an arc-shaped window on the dial, in addition to the date. This year’s version has a 40mm case in 950 platinum, showcasing the beautiful ice blue dial, a fabulous pairing. It also features another first – the emblematic fluted bezel in platinum. This hasn’t been done before, as the precious metal is challenging to work with: Rolex devised an innovative new manufacturing process for creating the signature fluting. The watch is powered by calibre 3255, a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 70 hours. The President bracelet on this new version includes an elegant concealed folding Crownclasp and ceramic inserts inside the links to enhance its flexibility and longevity. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case. This new interpretation is a premier piece in any land.

£50,850

Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31

‘The recently presented 2022 diamond set floral motif dial is in three new versions, with three different finishes. The azzurro blue is my personal favourite, with textural effects enhanced by diamonds, set to illuminate the floral motifs.’ Grace Quill, sales ambassador

The Datejust is part of Rolex’s classic collection and was the first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock on the dial. Launched in 1945 to commemorate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, two years later the 100,000th officially certified Rolex chronometer – an 18ct gold Datejust – was offered to British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf. The new Datejust 31mm is a glorious, characterful beauty, evoking meadows in summer with its dainty floral motif. The dial design comprises 24 flowers that stand distinctly one from the other because of the finishes on each petal – sunray, matt or grained – while the flowers are lit by a diamond in the centre of each bloom. The dials are azzurro blue, olive green, and a silver version, and all versions come with the option of bezels set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds. Powered by calibre 2236, the self-winding mechanical movement offers a power reserve of 55 hours. With its playful shimmer, the Datejust 31 is a perfect, petite piece with beauty and brains.

From £8,100-£35,250

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

‘As a left-handed watch enthusiast and GMT fan, I could not be more delighted with this, with its new bidirectional bezel featuring new colours.’ Maria Yiacoumi, senior sales ambassador

The GMT-Master, originally designed as a navigation aid for pilots crossing continents and time zones, is now a favourite of travellers. Launched in 1955, the GMT became the official Pan American World Airways watch. During the 1960s, Rolex announced that Concorde pilots would be wearing the GMT-Master. The original had a 38mm steel case and a red and blue plexiglass bezel insert, which enabled the wearer to read the time in two different time zones. In 1982, the GMT-Master II was released with a new calibre, allowing the hour hand to be set independently from the other hands, creating a masterpiece that was easy to use and handsome. This year, Rolex unveils the new GMT-Master II that has been reinterpreted for the left-handed: the crown and guard are on the left of the case, and the date aperture and Cyclops lens have also moved. It has an Oystersteel case and bracelet and features a new colour combination – a monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert in green and black ceramic. An example of innovation and craftsmanship at its best, this timepiece is for adventurers or armchair travellers.

£9,000 (Jubilee bracelet); £8,800 (Oyster bracelet)