WORDS
Gemma Billington
THE BACKGROUND
France has plenty to offer travellers: from its romantic capital city to the luscious cypress trees and lavender fields of Provence to the glamorous Riviera and equally opulent ski resorts around the Swiss-Italian border. But one of the country’s more understated and lesser-known hotspots is Biarritz, a former fishing port-turned world-famous surfing resort just 18km from the Basque Country.
Biarritz is having a moment, according to a recent write-up in British Vogue, who called it a ‘well-kept secret’ as well as a place set to be summer’s ‘buzziest European beach destination’. But this wouldn’t be the town’s first moment in the sun. In the 19th century, Eugénie de Montijo, wife of Napoleon III, fell in love with Biarritz and built her grand summer home Villa Eugénie (today the Hôtel du Palais) overlooking Grande Plage beach. The imperial couple attracted other European monarchs and dignitaries, among them Queen Victoria and King Alfonso XIII, who helped establish Biarritz as a glamorous and well-heeled destination. With a thriving nightlife and numerous luxury spa hotels springing up, Biarritz became known as ‘the queen of resorts and the resort of kings’ in the Roaring Twenties. In the wake of World War II, however, the town lost a little of its regal shine, and today it has a more cosmopolitan feel, but there’s still an elegant history to be found that is uniquely balanced with an easygoing surfer culture. With its miles of beaches, lush countryside and mountains, Biarritz is perfect for outdoorsy types, but visitors are also drawn to the region’s first-rate gastronomy (don’t miss Maison Arostéguy, the oldest family delicatessen in France, founded in 1875, or the swish beach club Blue Cargo) and a burgeoning contemporary art scene. In short, there’s something for everyone – and never a dull moment.
THE VILLA
Located in the charming 12th-century fishing village of Guéthary, which is positioned almost equi-distant between Biarritz and the Basque border, is Villa Suska. This sleek, contemporary property is managed by luxury holiday rental company SJ Villas, who highlight Guéthary as one of the trendiest and best ‘up-and-coming villages on the French surfing scene’. There’s a distinctive laid-back vibe to the village, which also translates to the villa. It of course comes with all the expected luxury mod-cons – a fully equipped games room, chef on request and heated pool with electric cover. The villa actually comprises two properties – a main house and a cottage – set just 100 yards apart, sleeping up to 14 people between both. The main house is a modern L-shaped building centred around the Asian-style pool with its unexpected landscape of lush lawns, palm trees and teak decking. The location is quiet and secluded but just a two-minute walk from Guéthary, which promises excellent and unfussy places to eat, drink and people watch. Plage de Parlementia, one of the best surfing beaches in the region, is also within walking distance.
THE FINE DETAILS
Villa Suska is available all year round, but the best time to visit for surfing is between June and October. Villa Suska is available from €21,250 per week. See sjvillas.co.uk to book.