WORDS
Gemma Billington
The background
Unlike the dazzling city itself, the hotel scene in Brighton is somewhat lacklustre. Sure, there are a few charming boutique hotels in Hove and Kemptown but, on the whole, the scene is run-down, overpriced and uninspiring. Even the grande Victorian dames along the seafront (not naming any names) have seen better days.
This is because many hotels can rest on their laurels, safe in the knowledge that the near-constant slew of tourists, hen-dos and Pride crowds will keep them fully booked – even if the inside hasn’t seen a lick of paint since 1986.
But keen to buck this unfortunate trend is the recently refurbished and rebranded DoubleTree by Hilton Brighton Metropole. Hilton took over the handsome red-brick seafront building in 2000, and it has now come under its rapidly-expanding DoubleTree brand. But what can guests expect?
The interior
Well, Brighton regulars can breathe a sigh of relief because the result of the refurbishment is first-rate. The new-look DoubleTree by Hilton Brighton Metropole is sophisticated and stylish, with a sensitive makeover that breathes new life into the Victorian behemoth. The hotel dates back to 1890 and was designed by Alfred Waterhouse, the architect behind the iconic and equally grand Natural History Museum. Throughout its history it has welcomed plenty of distinguished guests, including Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor and even Oscar Wilde (AKA the ultimate fantasy dinner guests). It’s a gorgeous building, with sweeping staircases, huge floor-to-ceiling windows, marble detailing and glittering chandeliers. These architectural elements have been lovingly restored but balanced with more contemporary furnishings, such as plush velvet sofas, mid-century style lamps and even jungle-themed wallpaper. We stayed in a spacious superior room with a sea view. A small balcony overlooks the buzzy promenade and West Pier, and on a glorious, sunny weekend (which we were lucky enough to experience) it feels like you could be abroad. Extra brownie points for the large bathroom (with separate shower and bath) and elegant Crabtree & Evelyn toiletries. As for the hotel’s other amenities, there’s a small but well-designed swimming pool, sauna, steam room and gym at basement level, and meeting rooms galore.

Food & drink
One of the Americanised quirks of the DoubleTree brand is that guests are given a warm and gooey chocolate chip cookie on arrival. In addition to this, there were also some chocolates and two premixed canned cocktails (made with Brighton Gin, natch) waiting in the room. And for guests disinclined to stray too far from the hotel, there’s a plethora of dining choices all under one roof. For starters, The Metropole Bar is a lively all-day affair offering bottomless brunch, afternoon tea and cocktails. Then there’s contemporary seafood restaurant The Salt Room, housed in a stylish covered terrace area with splendid sea views. And for something completely different, the 1890 at The Met restaurant (a beautiful Victorian ballroom where a pricey but excellent breakfast is served) is home to concept restaurant Le Petit Chef, where a five-course feast is served alongside immersive animated projections. It’s more family-friendly than “date night”, but lots of fun.
The bill
Prices start from £130 for a double superior guestroom
The verdict
A weekend away in Brighton is always a treat. And the city is so much more than just kiss-me-quick entertainment and drunken stags and hens. Brighton has charm in (buckets and) spades, with its eclectic shops, art galleries, hidden pubs, exciting bars and restaurants and authentic community spirit. All set against the backdrop of a shimmering blue sea and iconic piers. And now, with its sensitive restoration and acute attention to detail, the DoubleTree by Hilton Brighton Metropole is a hotel worthy of Britain’s most fabulous city.